2007 di Lenardo REFOSCO "Dal Vigneto da Lis Maris" (Friuli, Italy)


A very interesting wine and a good value. Very chameleon-like, changing dramatically as it aired out.

Dark black ruby. Closed at first, but with air and poured through a Vinturi, it developed a gorgeous nose of cinnamon-scented, warm, moist, intensely minerally gravel, along with very nice blackberry and plum fruit. Very soft and mouthfilling, yet with a certain weightless character. Medium-bodied, nicely balanced, with lost of ripe berry fruit and spiced sandstone in the finish.

(The next day, it was still very good, but had developed an incredibly intense dried herbal streak, and with some noticeable green bell pepper flavors in the mouth.)

89. Was about $12 at Central Market. Imported by Virtuoso Selections, Austin.

Note: There is some debate whether Refosco is the same grape known as Mondeuse in the Savoie region of France.

Rosé Time!!

I love good rosé in the Houston summertime. It gives some of the flavor of a light red, but you can drink it well-chilled on days when it's just too damn hot to pop a red.

But make sure they're fresh. 99% of rosés need to be drunk young. By summertime, rosés from the prior year's vintage should be arriving in stores. So be looking for the 2009s, and avoid any more 2008s or older. I've finished off a few of my remaining 2008s recently, and they have been flat and starting to taste over-the-hill, so I haven't written them up. I've just picked up a few 2009s and plan to be reviewing them in the next month.

Cent anni!

2009 Yalumba SANGIOVESE ROSÉ (South Australia)


A solid, fresh, nicely-textured rose. Good value.

Vivid bubble gum pink color. Richly fruity nose -- grape, watermelon, cherry, and peach. Hint of minerals. Round and ripe, with medium-light body and lots of fleshy fruit. Just off-dry, but with decent enough acid to keep it from being cloying. Shortish but soft and clean finish. A nice, easy-going summer quaffer. Was $9.99 at Houston Wine Merchant. 86.

2006 Domaine Louis Jadot PERNAND-VERGELESSES "Clos de la Croix de Pierre" Premiere Cru (White Burgundy, France)


A superb and very distinctive white.

Light pewtery-tinged gold color. Intensely mineral-infused, smoky, earthy nose, with clove and peach pit notes. Soft, broad, and slightly viscous (in a good way) in the mouth, yet with a lovely, light feel. Rich, long flavors of butter, minerals, stones, and slightly bitter-edged peach/pear fruit. Lots of the clove notes throughout. Love the texture and the unique flavors.

Pernand-Vergelesses is, in my view, one of the most underrated white burgundy towns in France. Very near the much more expensive and famous Corton-Charlemagne vineyard, the best Pernands share some of the distinctiveness of its more expensive neighbor's expression of Chardonnay fruit. 90. Was $29 at Spec's on Weslayan (and on Smith). Imported by Kobrand.

2006 Ross Estate "Old Vine" GRENACHE (Barossa Valley, Australia)


I love Aussie old vine Grenaches, be they the massive, ultra-full-bodied style, or the more restrained yet still substantial style. This is more of the latter.

Dark blackish ruby garnet. Mature, complex nose of spice cake and pungent sandstone, along with a fair amount of blackberry juice. Intensely concentrated flavors, without the heaviness, however. Mouthfilling, nicely-textured richness, with spicy, ripe plums and dark berry flavors, followed by an intensely minerally, gravelly finish. Still some tannin remaining in the finish, but the nose, flavors, and color all seem developed to the degree where I don't recommend much further ageing in an attempt to get the rest of the tannins to drop. Drink over the next year. 88. Was $20 at Spec's on Smith.

2008 "Adega de Pias" (Alentejano, Portugal)


This blend of 50% Tempranillo and 50% Trincadeira (according to the importer's website) is direct and fruity. Worth the $9.99 price, and best drunk cool.

Vibrant, deep ruby with cherry red highlights. Sweet, plummy nose with slight earthy-stony and rhubarb notes. Pure and succulent on initial entry, with ripe, soft, very straightforward fruit, and a pleasing touch of bitterness in the finish. Medium bodied, and a bit low in acidity, this wine is for quaffing over the next six months or so. Was under $10 at Houston Wine Merchant. Imported by Small Vineyard Discovery Imports. 86.

The Sand in the Hourglass

The deeper I dig into the bizarre actions of General Stanley McChrystal, the more disturbing the story gets. Let's start with the basics; I don't care if you are Seaman Deuce or a General of the Army, the chain of command is inviolate.  Military success is built on order and discipline, and as a leader you cannot set the example of flaunting the chain of command - flaunt it, and it will flaunt you...Gen'l McChrystal has now learned that lesson.  From that perspective, what was revealed in the interview with the Rolling Stone is dangerously close to direct insubordination and had to be punished.  

In a country where the military is controlled by civilian rule, it is equally important that leaders not show their political bias.  I remember wanting to put one of these on my "Ensignmobile" in 1980:


The very swift response from my C.O. was "no, it's not what officers do."  Officers are commissioned to lead their men, not influence their political persuasion.  You may not like the orders you receive from the egg-heads in Washington, they may seem inane and dangerous, but you follow them.  You send your concerns back up the chain of command and pray that someone at the Pentagon or DOD can get the message to the decision makers that will change the order...you don't go public and you especially don't seek to get on the cover of the Rolling Stone! Bottom line is, McChrystal had to go and go fast.  

What was not needed, however, was the public macho display put on by Obama in the Rose Garden yesterday afternoon.  My guess is that Axelrod and the PR boys wanted to stage an event like this to make their guy look manly...especially after the little boy image he portrayed in that pathetic speech from the Oval Office a few days ago...I mean really, compare and contrast:





The proper way to handle the resignation/replacement of someone who has served his country for the years that Stanley McChrystal has is with a private meeting in the Oval Office and a statement issued to the press later...no public show necessary.  This shows that you, as the President, are firmly in control and that it is nothing to be concerned about.  McChrystal was not irreplaceable, as some wags were venting yesterday - as DeGaulle once quipped: "graveyards are full of indispensable men." But, we are at war, and McChrystal has a helluva lot of talent at killing bad guys and you might want to avail him of his services again soon.  I would have recommended the Patton treatment.  After a couple of insubordinate actions in Sicily during World War II, General George Patton was relieved by then Supreme Allied Commander, Dwight Eisenhower.  He cooled his heels in England for several months as the D-Day invasion got underway (although he did provide an enormously valuable decoy that the Germans took) and then was reinserted into the campaign as the General in charge of the Third Army which ripped apart the Germans in short order.

When they are not trying to resuscitate the failure of the Obama regime with comparisons to Lincoln - "this is just like Lincoln relieving McClellan," the main stream media is trying to graft "Give 'em Hell Harry" Truman onto the rotting corpse of this failed image: "This is just like Truman relieving MacArthur."  McChrystal is his own man - he is no McClellan, a peacock of a military man trimming his feathers to run for political office and afraid to engage the enemy.  And he certainly is no MacArthur, who was relieved because he wanted to expand the Korean War and attack China.  Here's the rub - McChrystal is Obama's general and he was following the policy.  Ironically, he is being replaced by the man who could arguably be called "Bush's General," the architect of the Iraqi surge, General Petraeus ("Betrayus" if you are a liberal.)

As was pointed out in the Rolling Stone piece and elsewhere, McChrystal voted for Obama.  Marc Abinder over at The Atlantic points out the McChrystal was a social liberal - he banned Fox News from his headquarters, he didn't like outward shows of Americanism like Burger King signs on the bases, and he actually believed that through our good nature we could get the Muslims to fight with us instead of against us - as Andy McCarthy observed over at the Corner:

I got in some hot water here last year for arguing that Gen. McChrystal, for all his undeniable valor, is a progressive big-thinker who has been conducting a sociology experiment in Islamic nation-building. It's a flawed experiment that assumes Afghan Muslims will side with us — i.e., the Westerners their clerical authorities tell them are infidel invaders and occupiers — against their fellow Afghan Muslims.
Nothing in the ensuing months changes my mind. To the contrary, what I've seen lately indicates that, while our troops are imperiled under strait-jacketing rules of engagement imposed by Gen. McChrystal to avoid offending Afghans, Christian missionaries have been suspended for preaching (proselytism for any belief-system other than Islam is illegal in Afghanistan). I've seen Asia News's report that Afghan converts to Christianity have been sentenced to death for apostasy. All this, moreover, is happening under the new constitution we helped write, which (as the State Department bragged in 2004) enshrines sharia as Afghanistan's fundamental law. That is, the Afghan Muslim population our troops are fighting and dying to protect has institutionalized the persecution of other populations (when the said Muslims are not otherwise busy killing each other).


For me, the image of the man that emerges is someone that is very deeply conflicted.  On the one hand, he IS the fearless spec ops warrior who doesn't shy away from engaging the enemy himself, on the other, he is apparently a dyed in the wool liberal who really believes that if we could just talk to each other, we'll be singing "Kumbaya" together before the night's out.  This latter part of his split personality does explain the Rolling Stone as the medium for his message.  This conflict is creating chaos on the ground in Afghanistan, as noted imbedded journalists like Michael Yon (who McChrystal banned from the Afghan theater) have pointed out.

But I don't care how many generals or stars you throw at Afghanistan, you are going to get nowhere if you announce ahead of time your departure date!  For a military man, this has to be the greatest conflict.  You are carrying out the orders of your commanders and sending troopers into places where they will get killed knowing that in a year's time, you will be pulling out.  This inane policy is incredibly corrosive to morale - who the hell would want to fight if you know that if you can just stay alive till next July you can go home?



If one good thing emerges from this whole debacle, perhaps it will be a re-thinking of our entire Afghan strategy.  Some years ago, my company was not selected by the city to redevelop a small section of riverfront downtown..."best deal we never did," I like to quip.  After studying the plan for the team that was selected, I concluded that it was financially impossible to accomplish.  After about a year of wrangling between the city and the selectee, I was asked back to the table.  Incredibly, I was asked to execute their plan!  I politely refused and sadly, that area to this day, is still floundering.  You can't execute a flawed strategy, no matter how brilliant you are!  I am not comparing myself to General Petraeus who I have utmost respect for, merely making the analogy, that if the plan is broken, no amount of genius is going to turn it around.  As General Honore likes to say, "you can't fix stupid."

I hope and pray for our men, that Petraeus's orders are to evaluate the current situation and strategy and to report back on what he needs.  I have spelled out my recommended strategy earlier on these pages in a piece titled "Beyond Afghanistan," and perhaps I will be lucky enough to get a read from the good General.  Short version is this - a) Iraq and Afghanistan are very different and thus require very different strategies  b) small, lethal footprint is the way to go.  In the end, we can not afford to continue bleeding in the mountains of Afghanistan.  The lives and the money aren't worth it when the political will for victory does not exist.  

We have arrived at this spot because of the neglect and failure of our leadership.  They selected "their man" to lead the renewed fight in Afghanistan then fumbled and mumbled for months while men died as their academic team pondered and attempted to triangulate the general's requests.  In the end, McChrystal was left 10,000 men short of his request and had a date stamp put on the mission...an impossible task that our American GI knows too well.  Though it would be impossible for Obama's people to understand this, because we can be sure he views the men that serve voluntarily with derision - after all they are a bunch of bitter clingers aren't they - but as Kipling observed about his beloved Tommies, you bet that the GI sees:
An' it's Tommy this, an' Tommy that, an' anything you please
An' Tommy ain't a bloomin' fool -- you bet that Tommy sees!


2007 Viticcio CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)


Wow! This was utterly classic Chianti. I wish I could find it in Houston.

Sultry dark black ruby. With substantial airing, it developed a fantastic nose of ripe cherry liqueur, spice cake, and incense-infused warm gravel. Complex and round, medium full-bodied. Had concentrated but lithe flavors of ripe cherry liqueur, tons of clean, stony minerals, and a lengthy, smoky cherry-skin finish. Some nicely-integrated soft tannin adds a welcome bit of structure. Good but unobtrusive acidity. 90. Imported by Massanois Imports, D.C. I got this for $17 from Zachy's in Scarsdale, N.Y. a few months ago.

(Sorry, 2006 shown)

2006 Chateau du Poytet MUSCADET DE SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE (Loire, France)

A textbook example of Muscadet, and it also showed that well-made Muscadet can take a little bottle age nicely.

Very light gold color. Great nose of lively lemon-lime and green apple fruit, along with a lightly earthy, creamed stone emulsion. Bone dry yet soft, ripe yet crisp, refreshing yet a little earthy, this wine nicely summed up the best of Muscadet. Clean, cleansing finish. Me likey. 88. Imported by Glazer's Wholesale, Dallas. Was $13.49 at Central Market several months ago, so I'm not sure if they still have it.

Couple of Rhones from the PERRINS

Based on past experience and these two wines, I think I have come to the conclusion that I am just not a fan of the Perrin winemaking style. I'm not talking about their estate wines, Chateau de Beaucastel CDP or Cru de Coudelet CDR, both of which I like a lot, but about the negociant line they have been making for the last 10 years or so. I have had maybe half a dozen over the last decade, and have found every single one of them too coarse and rustic for their own good.

2007 Perrin VINSOBRES "Les Cornuds" -- this Cotes du Rhone Villages from the village of Vinsobres had some serious dark flavors, but was way too coarse for me. Nice dark color, but the nose favored deep tones smoky, peppery, gravelly scents over the dark berries that were smothered underneath. Dense, very low-toned flavors, with lots of peppery notes and tannin running roughshod over the fruit. 83. Was about $18 at Spec's on Smith, I believe.



2007 Perrin COTES DU RHONE-VILLAGES -- In an interesting paradox, the cheaper Cotes du Rhone Villages ($9.84 at Spec's) was more pleasurable than the more expensive Vinsobres. Medium dark ruby with some violet. More fruit (berries, plums) on the nose, with some nice powdered stones and baking spices. Fleshy and medium bodies, but still with a bit of their trademark coarse tannin intruding, though definitely less so than the Vinsobres. 85.


Next time you can't find that corkscrew . . . .

Watch and learn:

http://www.wimp.com/wineshoe/


2007 Pillar Box Red (65% Shiraz, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot) (Padthaway, Australia)


Very good, if you like that super-extracted, super-ripe Aussie style. May be a bit much for some.

Completely saturated, nearly black plasma color. Sweet, deep, smoky, salty nose, with loads of graphite and dried blackberry sap scents. As it aired out, more fruit emerged, and the smoky, graphite elements receded. Very low-toned, dense flavors of salty sandstone-infused blackberry syrup attack the palate and then morph into smoky, liquid minerals in the back of the throat. Low acidity and a boatload of soft tannin. Huge and dense, this is a weighty mouthful. It was about $10 (I can't remember where, but it's widely available, appearing even in supermarkets). Not elegant, but no skimping on flavor. I gave it an 88, but some won't go for this style, and I admit that I have to be in the mood for it.

2008 La Salette VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO (Veneto, Italy)


A classic Valpo. Crisp, focused, flavorful, refreshing, with a touch of pleasant bitterness in the finish. A terrific summertime red that is best served cool.

Dark ruby garnet color. Lively nose of crunchy, crisp cherries and berries, with pungent crushed stone scents. Bone dry, yet brightly-fruited in the mouth, with crisp flavors of cherry, and a cleansing minerality. Good flavor persistence and excellent acidity. Light bodied. Lots of character in a totally refreshing style. 88. Was $16.99 at Houston Wine Merchant on South Shephard.


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