Two mediocre wines and one OK one

A disappointing week of wine. I blog about stuff I wouldn't buy again so anyone stumbling on this blog won't waste their money. These all seemed like they would be interesting to try but weren't worth buying.

2007 Les Claux Delorme VALENCAY Rouge (Loire Valley, France) -- this 40% Gamay, 30% Malbec (Cot), 20% Cab Franc, 10% Pinot Noir stank like manure the first night. As seems to frequently be the case (with wines that have this stink), two nights later the barnyard was nowhere to be smelled, and it was replaced by fresh, light flavors of crisp berries and minerals. It's quaffable, and went well with take-out Chinese. B- (after significant airing blows off the stank). Was about $20 from Zachys.

2008 Altano DOURO (Portugal) -- This organic Portuguese blend lacked concentration and tasted a bit overcropped and overextracted. Saturated color, Nose of high-toned blackberries, powdered rocks, burnt balsa wood and scorched earth. Lean, slightly undernourished fruit but nice minerally flavors, with a tannic, astringent finish. C.

2009 La Clotiere COTEAUX D'ANCENIS GAMAY (Loire Valley, France) -- Lean and underripe, this watery wine was more of a palate cleanser (good crisp acids) than an accompaniment to dinner. D+ Was about $9 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

2008 "Adega de Pias" (Alentejano, Portugal)

This blend of 50% Tempranillo and 50% Trincadeira (according to the importer's website) is direct and fruity. Worth the $9.99 price, and best drunk cool.

Vibrant, deep ruby with cherry red highlights. Sweet, plummy nose with slight earthy-stony and rhubarb notes. Pure and succulent on initial entry, with ripe, soft, very straightforward fruit, and a pleasing touch of bitterness in the finish. Medium bodied, and a bit low in acidity, this wine is for quaffing over the next six months or so. Was under $10 at Houston Wine Merchant. Imported by Small Vineyard Discovery Imports. 86.

2006 Quinta do Alqeve "Tradicional" (Ribatejo, Portugal)

I drank and enjoyed the 2001 of this several years ago, but this iteration was disappointing.

Thin, tight, with altogether too much acidity (much of it volatile acidity, i.e., acetic acid), with little redeeming flavor. Avoid. F.

2006 Cabriz DAO (Portugal)

A pretty solid Dao, and a good value. Note: this wine requires lots of air-time (or to be poured through a Vinturi) to open up.

Dark ruby. Interesting, medium-intensity nose of spiced gravel, dark cherries, and lemony chalk. Focused and balanced, with minerally dark cherry and blackberry fruit. Medium-bodied, with a nicely-balanced finish, and decent length. 87. $10.99 at Houston Wine Merchant. Imported by Aidil Wines, Newark, NJ.

2006 Meia Encosta DÃO (Portugal)

A pretty solid $10 red.

Dark ruby garnet color.

Forthright nose of tangy mixed berries and spicy powdered rock. Medium full bodied and soft textured, with reasonably concentrated plum and pomegranate fruit and powdered stone flavors. Clean, balanced, medium length finish. While it's hard to get really excited about this wine, this is a wine that few people can dislike, making it a good choice for large, casual events. 86. Was around $10 at Spec's on Smith.

2005 Quinta do Valdoeiro BAIRRADA (Portugal)

Bairrada is in my view an underrated region in Portugal, with lots of good values to be had. This is one.

Dark black ruby. Subtle nose of ripe, red fruit (cherry, plum), smoky balsa wood, baking spices, and dry gravel. Ripe, lively entry, with medium body, and an elegant personality. Spritely acidity lends to a lively mouthfeel, with equal measures of tangy plummy fruit and crushed stone flavors. 88. Was $11.40 at Spec's. Imported by Direct Wines Imports of Texas.

(Hat tip to VINEgeek for the photo.)

Vacation wines -- Day 7

2005 Herdade das Servas "Monte das Servas" (Alentejano, Portugal) -- This wine was extraordinarily soft and velvety textured, with nicely integrated red berry fruit and cigar box scents. I liked it a lot.

2006 Altos las Hormigas Malbec Reserva (Mendoza, Argentina) -- A dense, ripe, highly extracted and very tannic Malbec. My brother Angy liked it a lot more than I did, as I thought the level of tannins was a bit over the top.

Dinner: Beef Stew "in the Italian fashion" with lots of red wine and tomatoes.

2006 Quinta do Penedo DÃO (Portugal)

This relatively inexpensive wine, which is produced by an estate in the stable of the large Portuguese wine concern, Messias, was very balanced, flavorful, and interesting.

Eye: Saturated black, black ruby color.

Nose: Very interesting nose -- smoky embers, sandstone, and sweet plums.

Mouth: Soft and broadly-flavored, but lacking just a tad of concentration in the mid-palate. Flavors of sweet cassis and plum fruit, with iodine and a pleasant, slightly bitter earthy component.

Was very nice with pasta in a rich sauce that included tomatoes, garlic, prosciutto, soppressata, fresh mozzarella, and lots of herbs.

Score: 87.

Cellar or drink? Drink over the next year or so.

Price/store: Was $13 and change at Spec's on Smith.

2001 Quinta do Alqueve "ANCESTRAL" (Ribatejano, Portugal)

Deep blackish ruby with no real signs of age. Wickedly high-toned nose of very spicy, mineral-laced raspberries and crusty bread. High-toned flavors as well, with lots of earthy/sandstone and spicy red fruit. Beautifully balanced, with a long finsh. Very distinctive. 88. Was $13 at Richard's on San Felipe.

2004 Quinta dos Grilos DAO (Portugal)

(Truncated, non-scored notes from memory). This was a GREAT value. Got it for $7.99 at Pop 'N Cork in Ludlow, MA (which has a nice selection of interesting and moderately priced Portuguese wines). Deep blackish ruby. Great nose of ripe, spicy raspberries, peppercorns, and granite dust. Medium-full bodied flavors of ripe fruit and spicy minerals. Drink now or age a year or two.

2003 Messias Tinto (Setúbal, Portugal)

Here is a GREAT buy for a light but flavorful picnic, cookout, or party red. Youthful medium ruby-purple color. Ripe nose of black fruits, with a note of ripe peaches and hot granite in the background. Although it's light-bodied in the mouth, it's got impressive purity of fruit, nice roundness, and good balance. Nice finish, with a little youthful chalky tannin and some alcoholic pepperiness. Can't ask for more at $5.25 per bottle at Spec's on Westheimer. 86.

From the Setúbal peninsula, just across the Rio Tejo from Lisboa. Label says 50% Aragonês, 50% Castelão Françês, two grape varietals I am unfamiliar with. I remember a few years ago drinking the 2000 of this wine; it was excellent, with a tad more concentration than this one.

2001 Quinta do Carmo "Dom Martinho" (Alentejano, Portugal)

78. A kinda complex, but austere, unfriendly wine. No sediment at all, indicating that they filtered the crap out of it. Earthy, gravelly, cigar box, dry leaf nose. Little fruit in the aromatics. Austere, yet flavorful in the mouth, with tight structure and lots of acidity. Reminds me of a basic Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux from a middlin' vintage. Like most affordable Bordeaux, this is not my cup of tea. Took a chance and paid $10.99 at Cost Plus World Marketplace on Richmond. Won't make that mistake twice.

1999 Cortes de Cima (Alentejano) (Portugal)

89. Very nice wine at its peak. Dark ruby with a thin line of brick at the rim. Nose of ripe cherries, Indian spices, incense, and tobacco leaf. On the palate, ripe chokecherries and mineral notes, good balancing acidity, and a reasonably long finish with some dusty tannins remaining. This wine reminds me of a mid-weight Barbaresco or Nebbiolo/Barbera blend such as Bricco Manzoni.

The back label says it's a blend of Aragonez (primary varietal), with some Trincadeira and Perequita. Most Perequita-based wines I've had are relatively simple, tart, cherryish wines, so I'm guessing it's the Aragonez -- a varietal I am unfamiliar with -- that made this wine as good as it is.

This was a gift from a friend, so I don't have purchase info -- thanks for the nice wine, Antonio!