2007 Falernia SYRAH Reserva (Elqui Valley, Chile)

Another good Syrah from the Elqui Valley. This wine was intense in a very lean, zero body fat way.

Nearly saturated deep mulberry ruby color. Strong nose of intense crushed black peppercorn, deeply-roasted bitter herbs, and sandstone, overlayed with dark blackberry fruit. The first night is was intense, lean, and austere, with very clingy herbal flavors predominating. On night 2, more fruit and roundness emerged. It displayed ripe blackberry fruit and a high-toned, chalky minerality. The herbal stuff decidedly took a back seat for the ride home on night 2. Good acidity to bring liveliness to the clingy flavors. Still some tannin left. This will hold and maybe improve over the next 2 years. Be sure to let it air out well in advance (pour through a Vinturi into a wide decanter if you can). B+. Imported by Meadowbrook Estates (an arm of Neil Empson's company). Can't remember where I got this, but I think it was around $12.

2008 Yalumba SHIRAZ "Patchwork" (Barossa Valley, Australia)

A very nice, not over-blown or overly jammy Shiraz.

Almost completely saturated soft, blackish plasma color. Rich and inviting nose of sappy blackberry, salty, warm sandstone, and creamy baking spices. Dark, low-toned, ripe flavors of rich plum/blackberry juice, saline sandstone-infused earthiness, and smoky balsa wood. Clingy finish with a tad bit of peppery bite, low-ish acidity (but not too low), and a bit of soft tannin. Fun to drink and actually pretty elegant for an Aussie Shiraz. B+. Was $14 and change at Spec's on Richmond.

2008 Chono SYRAH Reserve (Elqui Valley, Chile)

Holy crap! I've never had as strong a sense of "deja wine" as with this one. It reminded me of a 1979 Cakebread Howell Mountain Beatty Ranch Zinfandel I had a couple of bottles of in the early 1980s in my Upper West Side apartment on w89th Street in NY. It almost literally transported me back to that place and time. But enough New Age drivel.

Dark ruby color was not remarkable. But then I stuck my nose in the glass. And the time warp began. Fragrant nose of cracked black peppercorns, smoky gravel, and ripe, flavorful spicy blackberries. Ripe (but not jammy or overblown) dense, clingy flavors of black peppercorns, cassis, and smoky embers. Long, very clingy, low-toned, minerally finish. Full-bodied, yet not overdone, with good acidity for its size and good balance. Will keep and maybe even improve over the next 2-4 years, but, why wait? This is delicious now. A. I got this (I think) for around $13 at Whole Foods on Bellaire. Imported by one of my favorite importers, North Berkeley Imports.

2005 Domaine du Murinais CROZES-HERMITAGE "Cuvee Vieilles Vignes" (Rhone Valley, France)

This Syrah was good, but nothing more.

Youthful dark black ruby. Meaty, earthy nose with warm sandstone scents and some faint, slightly yeasty cassis fruit. Tight and crisp in the mouth, and actually a bit thin and lacking concentration. The modest fruit quickly transitioned in the mouth to a clingy, brambly component. Not bad, but not a repeat purchase. 80.

2008 Domaine La Bastide "les Genets" SYRAH "Vieilles Vignes" (VDP, Languedoc,Southern France)

This Syrah -- from a dry, hot region in the south of France, and unoaked, I think -- is an excellent value. I would put this up against Crozes-Hermitages and oaky U.S. Syrahs costing 2-3 times as much.

Gorgeously dark ruby with violet highlights. Deeply fruity nose of rich cassis and blackberry along with smoky, gravelly scents. Concentrated and tight, with good weight in the mouth yet with a relatively soft texture. Tightly-wound core of deep-toned dark berry fruit with a long, mineral/schist-infused finish. Soft enough to enjoy now, yet its balance, concentration, and loads of soft tannin will insure that it will keep for a couple of years. 88. Only $11 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.

2008 "THREE TREES" (100% Syrah) (VDP de Cotes Catalanes, southwest France)

This is a very good wine for the money. Tastes like a much more expensive Cornas.

Dark black ruby with violet highlights. Closed at first, with significant air time (and pouring through a Vinturi), it develops a big, dark, meaty, smoky blackcherry extract nose. The glory here, however, is in the mouth. These grapes must have been picked the perfect time. Loads of perfectly ripe, plummy, blackberry fruit, together with loads of smoky, sandstoney earth, Fantastic acidity. Lots of chewy, ripe tannins. Excellent! 90. Was $16.99 at Houston Wine Merchant on South Shepherd. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections.

2007 Pillar Box Red (65% Shiraz, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot) (Padthaway, Australia)

Very good, if you like that super-extracted, super-ripe Aussie style. May be a bit much for some.

Completely saturated, nearly black plasma color. Sweet, deep, smoky, salty nose, with loads of graphite and dried blackberry sap scents. As it aired out, more fruit emerged, and the smoky, graphite elements receded. Very low-toned, dense flavors of salty sandstone-infused blackberry syrup attack the palate and then morph into smoky, liquid minerals in the back of the throat. Low acidity and a boatload of soft tannin. Huge and dense, this is a weighty mouthful. It was about $10 (I can't remember where, but it's widely available, appearing even in supermarkets). Not elegant, but no skimping on flavor. I gave it an 88, but some won't go for this style, and I admit that I have to be in the mood for it.

2006 Domaine Durand CORNAS "Premices" (Northern Rhone, France)

A large-scaled and rustic Syrah.

Dark, vivid plum-ruby color. Although closed and giving up nothing but scorched earth scents initially, after significant air time it yielded scents of sweet, plummy fruit, smoky, meaty, almost bacon-y notes, and lemon-cream spices. Compact and tannic in the mouth, with lots of pencil shaving and scorched earth flavors, along with youthful and not-so-soft tannin and peppery piquancy obscuring some nice but shy cassis fruit. Long, dry finish. Needs another 2 - 4 years to drop out some of the tannin and open up a bit. 85+. Imported by Fruit of the Vine, Inc. Was $26 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

(Sorry -- this label looks a little different than the one I got, but it's close).

Easter wines

Sorry -- I know I'm behind, but here are the wines we popped open for our Easter dinner (with truncated, from-memory notes).

NV Pierre Sparr CREMANT D'ALSACE Reserve Brut -- To my mind, in general, sparkling wines from Alsace are the best values in the market for bubbly. They're generally $15-$20, and have as much character as non-vintage Champagne costing twice as much or more (although because of the different varietals used in Alsace the flavor profile is a bit different). They tend to be more flavorful than the Spanish cavas as well. This one was decent, but not a great example -- crisp, citrusy fruit, bone dry, but I detected just a note of beginning oxidation. Lucien Albrecht and Rene Mure are other producers to look for in Houston.

2006 Jean-Max Roger SANCERRE "Cuvee Les Caillottes" (Loire Valley, France) -- Lean, very herbal and crisp. A tad underripe for my palate. Bone dry and refreshing, however.

2001 Delectus MERLOT "Stanton Vineyard" (Napa Valley, Cal.) -- Yes, I have often repeated the famous Merlot line from Sideways, but this wine (which our guests the Murphys brought over) floored me. Superb, rich, chocolately dark fruit on the nose. Full, and still sporting some nice tannic structure. Lots of concentration and length, but with good balance. Can even stand a few more years in a cool cellar.

2006 Linne Calodo "NEMESIS" 82% Syrah, 14% Mourvedre, 4% Grenache (Paso Robles, Cal.) -- Big disappointment for such a cult winery. Overripe and massive, but plainly out of balance, with hot, hot alcohol burning from entry to finish, obliterating the flavors.

2006 Nugan Estate SHIRAZ (Riverina, Australia)

This was a beautifully balanced wine. Not as jammy and massive as some Aussie Shirazes.

Deep, vibrant color. Sweet and ripe nose of raspberries, blackberries, and smoky balsa wood. Soft and sensual texture in the mouth, with medium-full body and lots of pure fruit. Long, rich finish. A great buy at about $11 and change at Spec's on Richmond. 90.

2006 Navarro Correas SYRAH "Coleccion Privada" (Mendoza, Argentina)

This was a complex, balanced red at a reasonable price.

Fairly deep color. Needed a couple hours of air to unwind, but then displayed a nice nose of hot, smoky gravel and plummy, blackberryish fruit. Broad and mouthfilling, this wine had full body, lots of rich red fruit and mineral flavors, and gobs of soft tannin. It'll keep for a couple of years, but was very nice last weekend with "Matambre" (an Argentine butterflied, stuffed, rolled, braised flank steak -- yummy). 87. Was about $12 at Kroger's on Westpark.

2006 Torbreck "Woodcutter's" SHIRAZ (Barossa Valley, Australia)

A very deep-toned, exceedingly full-bodied wine.

Eye: Nearly fully saturated black black ruby, with violet highlights.

Nose: Deep, inky cassis liqueur scents with smoky cedar, a prominent eucalyptus component, and graphite in the background.

Mouth: Deep-toned flavors of spicy cassis extract, black peppercorns, tar, and grilled Italian sausage flavors. Extremely full-bodies, with noticeable alcoholic warmth in the finish. Massive and inky. Needs a rich meat or game stew to really shine.

Score: 88.

Cellar or drink? My experience is that wines with this much alcohol showing in the finish usually don't hold up that well in the cellar. The alcohol tends to burn through the fruit more over time. Drink over the next year.

Price/store: Was $18 and change at Spec's on Richmond.

2005 Rolf Binder "Halliwell" SHIRAZ (60%) / GRENACHE (40%) (Barossa Valley, Australia)

This was a terrific wine, with ripeness, balance, concentration, and complexity, all in good measure.

Eye: Saturated dark crystalline ruby.

Nose: Beautiful, ripe, rich scents of sweet blackberry and cassis, as well as smoky pencil lead. Makes you want to keep sticking your nose in the glass and keep sniffing.

Mouth: Rich, full, and smooth-textured. Complex flavors of ripe plum and cassis, as well as smoky oak and mineral-laced gravel. Decent balancing acidity in a long, pure finish.

Score: 90.

Cellar or drink? I would drink this over the next two years, as it is beautiful and soft right now.

Price/store: Was $23.88 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

2004 Martinelli SYRAH "Terra Felices" (Russian River Valley, Cal.)

This was a ripe, rich, earthy Syrah for short-term enjoyment. I thought it was very enjoyable, despite being a little softer and lower in acidity than I usually expect Syrah to be.

Eye: Dark, saturated black ruby with violet at the rim.

Nose: Fairly intense nose of roasted red meat, spicy and oozingly ripe blackberries, and balsa wood.

Mouth: Luciously soft and full in the mouth. Remarkable texture. Very low acidity, however, which is surprising to me, given that the Russian River Valley is generally known as a relatively cool climate AVA. Fleshy, rich cassis flavors, with equal magnitude notes of iodine and irony-earth. Long, ripe, soft finish.

Score: 89.

Cellar or drink? I would drink this over the next year or two. It' seems just too soft and too ripe to gamble on cellaring.

Price/store: This was on the wine list at Reef, where, despite the name, my wife and I had it with non-fish dishes. (Did you know that you can re-cork and take home unfinished wine from restaurants in Texas? Despite living in Texas for the last 10 years, I didn't, until our waitress suggested it!)

2006 Milton Park SHIRAZ (South Australia)

This was a good value in a soft, ripe, reasonably complex red.

Very dark black ruby with violet highlights at the rim. Ripe, soft nose of spiced, sweet plums and warm cream, with some sweet, toasty oak as well. Soft, round, and balanced, this wine featured very minerally flavors (hot, salty stones) together with cassis and graphite. Pure, long, but somewhat warm finish, with no discernible tannin. 87. Was about $12 at Central Market.

2005 Heartland South Australia SHIRAZ

This was a balanced, full-flavored, complex red.


Saturated black ruby, with some glints of purple still showing at the rim. Intense nose of blackberry and blueberry extract, with some sweet, spiced woodsmoke and hard lemon candy notes. Inky cassis and blackberry fruit, with a nice smoky, bacony component lurking in the background. Full and long in the mouth. Some very soft tannin in the finish augurs for the capability of 2 to 3 more years of aging. 90. Was $15.33 at Spec's on Smith.

2005 Piping Shrike SHIRAZ (Barossa Valley, Australia)

This was a decent value Shiraz, though showing more of an angular (rather than fleshy) side of the grape.


Nearly saturated brooding black ruby. Medium intensity nose of blackberries, graphite, and toasty balsa wood notes. More angular in the mouth than the nose would lead you to believe -- blackberry extract competing with equal intensity components of peppery minerals and an unusual, high-toned perfumey earthiness. 87. Was $13.49 at Central Market.

2004 Kilikanoon SHIRAZ "Killerman's Run" (South Australia)

This was outstanding.


Saturated black ruby color, with purple at the rim. Rich, complex nose of blackberries, cassis, graphite, lemons, and smoky spices. Rich, deep flavors of salted cassis extract coated in smoky minerals. Some soft tannin in the long, dark finish. 91. Drink over the next year. Was $16 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

UPDATE (9/19): Whole Foods has jacked the price on this to $22 and change.

UPDATE (12/8): Price back down to $16.99!

2005 Torbreck "Woodcutter's SHIRAZ" (Barossa Valley, Australia)

This was a superb bottle of wine.

Dense, saturated black ruby with purple highlights. Rich, sweet nose of charcoal, fragrant high-toned (balsa?) wood smoke, and spicy blackberry and cassis extract. Rich, densely concentrated flavors delivered in a light, almost weightless chassis. The almost inky flavors were redolent of balckberries and hot sandstone. Long, soft, perfectly balanced finish. 91. Was $16 at Spec's on Richmond.

2004 Thorn-Clarke "Terra Barossa" SHIRAZ (Barossa Valley, Australia)

I drank this about 2 months ago but lost the notes temporarily.

It was excellent. Deep, opaque ruby (like blood). Deep nose, too, of cassis, blueberry syrup, hot sandstone, and smoky graphite. Dense, deep, and dry, with flavors of ripe cassis, minerals, and salty iodine. Very distinctive. Well-integrated tannins are barely discernible but provide nice structure. Long, smoky finish. 90. Will hold for another 2-3 years or so. Can't remember where I got it, but it was definitely around $15.