2009 Hesketh GRENACHE "Wild at Heart" (South Australia)

Not the deepest or most complex Aussie Grenache I've had, but flavorful, balanced, and satisfying.  I think Grenache goes with many of the Italian dishes I tend to cook, which is odd, given that it's a grape that is grown only in one small area in Italy (a clone of Grenache called Cannonau is grown on the island of Sardinia).

Medium dark ruby.  Direct, big nose of kirsch, crushed stones, and lemon juice.  Full-bodied, with straight-on ripe, spicy raspberry fruit and a dry, saline, gravelly minerality that comes on in the finish.  Pretty big, but with good acidity for a Grenache from down-under, and a long, juicy finish.  B+.  Was $13 and change at Spec's on Smith.

2009 "EVODIA" "Old Vines Garnacha (Calatayud, Spain)

A ridiculous value in a ripe, structured, unoaked, minerally Grenache.

Dark ruby color.  Intense, vigorous nose of sharp-edged, chalky stones and bright, spicy dark raspberries.  Intense, powerful flavors coat the palate with ripe but dry raspberry syrup fruit and pure, clean stoniness.  Long, rich finish with just a bit of warm, alcoholic heat (what did you expect?  It's grenache, dammit).  Decent acidity for such a large-boned wine.  Will pair with grilled meats, meat-sauced pastas, and stews. A-. Imported by Eric Solomon, this was $9.88 at Spec's on Weslayan/Bissonnett (and probably at other Spec's locations too).

2007 Domaine Vendemio "AMADEUS" (Cotes de Ventoux, Southern France)

This 80% Grenache, 20 % Syrah was a bruiser.

Completely saturated black ruby.  Dark, low-toned and highly-extracted nose of mineral-laced blackberries, pound cake, and scorched earth.  Inky, mouthcoating, peppery flavors of blackberry skins and graphite.  Boatloads of tannins in the long, dark, highly-extracted, peppery finish.  B.  A winter-weight wine.  Imported by Eric Solomon, I got this on sale from Zachys.com during one of their periodic "$20 Sales."

2009 "IA" GARNACHA (Carinena, Spain)

A bright, zesty, tasty inexpensive red that would pair with lots of meals.

Bright, magenta-tinged ruby. Zesty, bright nose of ripe cherry and raspberry fruit, abundant rock dust, and fresh woodsy scents. Lively, zingy and intense in the mouth, with crisp, assertive flavors of winey, spicy raspberry and liquid rock. Very pure-tasting, with fairly full body and a fairly long finish. Very well made at this price point ($9 at Spec's on Richmond). B+. Imported by Hand-Picked Selections.

2008 Marquis Philips GRENACHE (McLaren Vale, Australia)

This was a loose, jiggly harlot of a wine. A bit too ripe and jammy for me, but very flavorful.

Medium light ruby color. Rich nose of baked raspberries, sandstone dust, and baking spices. Big, blowsy, almost overripe high-alcohol flavors of warm raspberry syrup and melted metallic minerals. Lots of heat and jammy fruit on the finish. Is there such a thing as a promiscuous wine? It was a good buy (if you like this style) at $7.99 on sale at World Marketplace (I think the regular price was $10). B-.

2006 d'Arenberg GRENACHE "The Derelict Vineyard" (McLaren Vale, Australia)

This was really good. I just love good Aussie Grenaches. They're the AC/DC of reds. Put on "For Those About to [Drink], We Salute You," and have at it. Anyway, this one was a bit less jammy and corpulent, and a bit more structured, than many from down under. But all the better for it.

Bright black ruby. Fragrant nose of bright, mineral-infused raspberry extract. Concentrated flavors, and a bit tighter in the mouth than most high-end Aussie Grenaches, it features intensely stony, spicy, raspberry fruit, as well as good weight and acids. Clingy, still somewhat tannic finish. This wine, atypically, will benefit from another year or two of aging. A-. Was $26 at Spec's on Smith.

2007 "GRANACHA" "Signargues" Cotes du Rhone-Villages (France)

From the well-respected Estezargues Co-op, this wine was a little overextracted, resulting in some astringency and a rough texture.

Dark black ruby. Nose of sharp, scorched earth, smoky sandstone, and some blackberry and peach pit scents. Ripe, lush fruit is somewhat compromised in the mouth with noticeable alcoholic, peppery notes. A bit of bitter chocolate and plentiful, rustic tannins in the finish. C+. Disappointing. Imported by Eric Solomon, I got this for $18.99 from Zachys.com.

2009 Pagos del Moncayo GARNACHA y SYRAH (Campo de Borja, Spain)

Pretty good, but at $14, and competing with a bunch of good, solid, clean, fruity Spanish reds that come in under $10, this wine is not an especially good value.

Dark ruby color. Smoky, gravelly nose -- showed blackberry syrup fruit, rock dust, and a sharp, scorched earth note. Rich, clingy flavors of peppercorns, bitterish minerals, and dark blackberry extract. Otherwise nice, long flavors were slightly marred by a bit of bitterness that may have been the result of the winemaker trying to overextract the grapes. B-. Got it at Spec's on Richmond near the West Loop.

2009 BORSAO (75% Garnacha, 25% Tempranillo) (Campo de Borja, Spain)

This is a perennial great value and is widely available to boot. The 2009 is very good, as usual.

Dark violet-tinged ruby. Rich, open nose of ripe raspberry syrup and dark, roasted green herbs. Dark, ripe flavors of black raspberry and scorched gravel. The barest hint of bitterness in the back half of the palate and a bit less acidity than I like are the only detracting factors, but there's a lot to like at the price. B. $6 and change at Spec's (probably all of them). Imported by Jorge Ordonez Selections.

2009 ZESTOS (Madrid, Spain)

This 50% Garnacha, 50% Tempranillo was grown just outside of Madrid, and is a fantastic value. It's got gorgeously fresh fruit, good concentration, and great balance.

Youthful dark black ruby. Vivid dark cherry/berry aromas leap from the glass, mixed with stones and baby powder. Lively, rich fruit attacks the palate, with excellent ripeness and acid balance juxtaposing body and freshness. Some refined tannin adds textural interest. Very direct and satisfying. I would be very hard-pressed to think of a better value in a weekday dinner (or casual party) wine. B+. Was $7.99 at World Marketplace at Richmond and West Loop. Imported by Patrick Mata's Olé Imports.

2009 Artazuri GARNACHA (Navarra, Spain)

A ripe, flavorful, soft, food-friendly bargain for drinking over the next year.

Dark ruby with magenta highlights. After airing, a vividly ripe nose featuring ripe raspberries, tomatoes, and wet stones. Mouthfilling, ripe, direct fruit coats the mouth, with some briary earthiness in the back half of the palate. Not a complex wine, but soft and flavorful. Medium length, clean finish. A very good value and would work with lots of foods (pastas with red sauces, pizza, grilled burgers, fajitas, etc.) Nice weekday wine. 87. Was about $10 at Spec's. Imported by Eric Solomon.

2008 Les Clos de Caillou COTES DU RHONE "Vieilles Vignes" (France)

Fantastic Cotes du Rhone, although not cheap either. Showing off the Grenache side of the Rhone family.

(These notes are from memory, as I had this at the house of some friends and didn't take contemporaneous notes). Medium dark black ruby. Sinfully pure nose of spicy, tangy dark raspberries, crushed stones and roasted herbs. Pure, soft, and mouthfilling, with great fruit/acid balance. Long, pure, soft finish. 90. I got this in northwest Austin at the Whole Foods just off of 183. It was $23. Imported by North Berkeley Imports.

2007 "Las Rocas" GARNACHA (Calatayud, Spain)

I hadn't tried a bottle of this ubiquitous Spanish red for many years. It's still very cheap and is a decent value.

Dark blackish ruby. Medium intensity nose -- smoky embers and spicy raspberry. Very low-toned, metallic-minerally flavors, with some vague raspberry and watermelon-extract fruit. Crisp acids. Fair amount of crushed black pepper in the the finish. Some tannin too. Kind of disjointed and rustic feeling. Lots of flavor though. 86. Was about $9 at Whole Foods on Bellaire, and is available at Spec's and elsewhere too.

Grandma, Nonno, and Molly's visit -- night 1

Grandma, Nonno, and our niece Molly are visiting. So we're breaking out the good stuff.

2007 Leitz Rudesheimer Klosterlay RIESLING Kabinett (Rheingau, Germany) -- Outrageous nose of ripe grapes and peach, slate and sea shells, and a lightly floral component. Piercing up-front fruit coats the mouth, wrapped in a thin veneer of minerals. Light to medium-bodied, slightly sweet, but with very good balancing acidity. A long, lithe, ridiculously pure finish. 91. Was around $18 at Spec's awhile ago, so I am not sure they still have it. Imported by Michael Skurnick Wines.

2007 Herman Story Winery GRENACHE "Larner Vineyard" (Santa Barbara County, Cal.) -- From a teeny, weeny winery, this was a brooding but civilized monster. Completely saturated ruby purple. Intense nose of crushed rocks, gravel, and spicy raspberry syrup, as well as warm, just-out-of-the-oven baking spices. Huge body, with almost port-like richness, but dry. Deep favors of liquefied stony minerals, dried raspberry syrup. Long, long finish, with some peppery warmth from the alcohol (16.1%), but it's actually hidden well. 90. Was $39 at Spec's on Smith.

2008 Zaumau (Priorat, Spain)

This garnacha (grenache) and samso (carignane) blend was excellent. Very soft, ripe, and balanced.

Vibrant dark black ruby. Textbook Spanish grenache nose of crushed-stone infused spicy dark raspberries and black cherry. Richly fruity and velvety soft, this mouthfilling yet not-heavy red offered lots of rich, up-front berry fruit, full-body, and a lengthy, pure-tasting finish. Some very fine-grained tannin and good acidity added structure. Very nice. Imported by one of my favorite Spanish importers, Jose Pastor Selections. 90. $20 at Spec's on Weslayan.

Boots GRENACHE "Size 07" (nonvintage) (Barossa Valley, Australia)

A decent, fleshy, but fairly simple Grenache.

Dark ruby. Ripe but kind of galumphy nose of tangy berries and pungent stone powder. Gutsy, straightforward, ripe fruit in the mouth, with full body and a moderately long, minerally finish. Not bad. The Aussie equivalent of a solid, entry-level Cotes du Rhone. 85. $13 and change at Spec's on Smith.

(Sorry: "Size 04" pictured).

2006 Ross Estate "Old Vine" GRENACHE (Barossa Valley, Australia)

I love Aussie old vine Grenaches, be they the massive, ultra-full-bodied style, or the more restrained yet still substantial style. This is more of the latter.

Dark blackish ruby garnet. Mature, complex nose of spice cake and pungent sandstone, along with a fair amount of blackberry juice. Intensely concentrated flavors, without the heaviness, however. Mouthfilling, nicely-textured richness, with spicy, ripe plums and dark berry flavors, followed by an intensely minerally, gravelly finish. Still some tannin remaining in the finish, but the nose, flavors, and color all seem developed to the degree where I don't recommend much further ageing in an attempt to get the rest of the tannins to drop. Drink over the next year. 88. Was $20 at Spec's on Smith.

2007 Almira "Los Dos" "Old Vines" 85% Grenache, 15% Syrah (Campo de Borja, Spain)

This was a ridiculous buy! I forgot where I got the damn thing, but I know it was around $10.

Bright medium cherry/ruby. Ridiculously juicy nose ripe, tangy reduction of raspberries and pungent hot stones. Dense, lively fruit attacks the palate with loads of juicy raspberries and clean stones. Long, warm, totally pure-tasting finish with very good acidity, and no tannin to speak of. Very food-friendly. 89. Imported by Winebow.

2006 Hacienda Molleda Carinena (100% GARNACHA) (Spain)

A very nice, pure-tasting Spanish Grenache. (Astute readers have deduced by now that I am partial to Grenache-based wines, as I feel they tend to go well with a lot of the dishes my wife Liz and I cook.)

High-toned, yeasty raspberries on the nose, with notes of powdered stone and a squeeze of lemon.

Lots of clean, ripe fruit in the mouth -- raspberry and crisp cherry -- with a liquid mineral streak. Fair amount of tannin. Not a lot of depth in the mid-palate, but nicely-balanced and clean. 87.

I have a vague recollection I got this at Central Market a few weeks ago, and that it was around $15. But don't quote me on that. Imported by Partick Mata at Olé Imports (a really good, young importer of generally zesty-styled Spanish reds).

2008 Monte Oton GARNACHA (Campo de Borja, Spain)

Another cheap and good Grenache from Spain.

Dark ruby color with violet highlights.

Gangly nose of crushed raspberries and rhubarb, laced with cinnamon-scented powdered stone.

Full-bodied, with decently-concentrated, low-toned fruit on initial entry, segueing into a crisp, minerally, slightly tannic finish. Lots of character, if not elegance, for this bargain basement price-point. 87. Was $7.99 at World Marketplace on Richmond neat the West Loop.