2007 Castello d'Albola CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

This was a solid, correct, if unexciting, Chianti.

Clear dark ruby color.  Medium intensity nose of winey cherries and licorice, along with notes of scorched gravel.  Lots of straightforward dark cherry fruit and scorched earth flavors.  Soft texture and medium bodied, with just barely enough acidity to prevent it from being dull-feeling.  A bit of gritty tannin in the mouth.  Not complex, but identifiably Chianti and possessing decent character.  B-.  Was $16.99 on sale at Randall's on Buffalo Speedway and Holcombe.  Imported by Zonin Imports.

2007 Casa Emma CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

This wine was in a very soft, easy-going style.  A bit less structured and simpler than is usual, in my opinion, from this very good producer.

Dark ruby garnet.  Scents of warm gravel and cherries.  Soft, easygoing flavors of sandstone, bright cherry fruit, and steely minerals.  Very soft texture and decent acidity.  Ideal for red-sauced pasta dishes over the next year.  B-.  Imported by Margaux and Associates, I got this for about $18 at Spec's.

2007 Isole e Olena CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A ripe, earthy, fleshy style of Chianti. Not what I normally go for, but I liked it a lot anyway.

Medium ruby garnet. Fragrant nose of wet gravel, sandstone, smoky balsa wood, blackberries, and sweet, dried cherries. Rich, ripe, and complex -- a lower acid, riper style -- with broad flavors of sweet cherri liqueur, smoke, tobacco, and minerally earth. Very good concentration. Very long finish. 90. Drink over the next 18 months. Was $17.99 from B-21 Wines in Florida. Imported by Stacole Wines.

2006 Castello di Rampolla CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

I think I'm getting to the point where I generally like the regular Chianti Classicos better than the more expensive Riserva bottlings. More accessible in aromas and texture when young and completely unobscured by any noticeable oakiness. Not to mention much cheaper.

This one rocked! Very rich dark ruby color. Fantastically fragrant nosed morphed over time. Started out really earthy but then the fruit emerged. Sweet, smoky schist/gravel and rich, plummy fruit. Intensely concentrated and ripe, with quartz-laced earthiness throughout the rich, ripe cherry fruit, and excellent acidity adding freshness. Still loads of fine0grained tannin in the long, mineral-laced finish. Fantastic, old-school Chianti. 90. Imported by Vias Imports. $30 from zachys.com (New York)

2007 Carpineto CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A very solid and satisfying Chianti. Good value.

Dark black ruby with the barest beginnings of ambering at the rim. Big, boisterous, old-fashioned Chianti nose of winey cherry liqueur, smoky gravel, and old barrels. Weighty and concentrated, with penetrating, earthy cherry fruitiness, great acidity, and a load of fairly soft, drying tannin in the finish. Rustic (for a Classico) and very good. 88. Was about $17 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Opici Imports.

2007 Viticcio CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

Wow! This was utterly classic Chianti. I wish I could find it in Houston.

Sultry dark black ruby. With substantial airing, it developed a fantastic nose of ripe cherry liqueur, spice cake, and incense-infused warm gravel. Complex and round, medium full-bodied. Had concentrated but lithe flavors of ripe cherry liqueur, tons of clean, stony minerals, and a lengthy, smoky cherry-skin finish. Some nicely-integrated soft tannin adds a welcome bit of structure. Good but unobtrusive acidity. 90. Imported by Massanois Imports, D.C. I got this for $17 from Zachy's in Scarsdale, N.Y. a few months ago.

(Sorry, 2006 shown)

2006 San Felice CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A textbook, classically-built Chianti.

Nearly saturated dark, crystalline ruby with a little garnet tint. Needs substantial air time (or to be poured through a Vinturi) for the nose to develop. Starts off closed and pungently minerally, but morphs into a classic nose of ripe chokecherries, minerally gravel, old barrel scents, and lemon zest. Soft as velvet and medium-bodied, with a refreshing lift in the mouth. Minerally/gravelly-infused cherry fruit. With just a tad bit more concentration, this would have been perfect! As it is, it's pure, refreshing, and has good length. Very little tannin is noticeable. Will make great drinking with a wide variety of Italian dishes over the next year. 88. Imported by Margaux and Associates. Was $16 and change at Spec's on Smith.

2006 San Leonino CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A very nicely-done Chianti.

Very dark, plasma-like ruby. Textbook Chianti nose of ripe chokecherries, along with smoky gravel. Good concentration and weight, with good balancing acidity and a bit of soft tannin. Flavors of ripe cherries and dark berries, with loads of dried-earthy, stony minerals. Fairly long finish. A very solid effort. 88. Was $16.49 at Spec's on Smith, making it a good buy. Imported by Wilson Daniels.

2006 Castello La Leccia CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A rather chunky and four-square Chianti. Satisfying, but neither elegant nor complex.

Very crystalline dark ruby. Somewhat reticent nose, but with coaxing, ripe, tangy dark cherry fruit, sweet cream, lemon juice, and hot gravel scents emerge. Focused and muscular in the mouth, with direct, dark cherry fruit and loads of slightly bitter minerals. Full-bodied (for a Chianti), with a slightly tannic mouthfeel. Its chunky, direct style would pair well with vary garlicky tomato sauces or a puttanesca sauce with lots of anchovies and olives. 86. Imported by Vituoso Selections (Austin, TX). Was about $16 and change at Spec's on Smith.

(Sorry, 2002 pictured).

2006 Felsina-Berardenga CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

This "entry-level" Chianti from a respected producer is very nice. A classic-styled Sangiovese from a classic terroir.

Youthful, medium-saturation black ruby. Nice, exuberant nose of sweet cream, macerated, tangy bu ripe cherries, and gravelly minerals. Nicely-focused, medium weight flavors of winey cherries and dried gravelly earth. A fair amount of tannin and a tight core of fruit augur for 1-2 more years of beneficial cellaring to soften and expand. 87+. Was $18.99 at Spec's on Smith, making it a fairly good value for a Chianti Classico. (Sorry, forgot to make a note of the importer.)

2006 Fattoria di Vetrice CHIANTI RUFINA (Tuscany, Italy)

This wine, which is the basic, entry-level non-Riserva from this winery, is usually a good buy. The 2006 is good, but a bit earthier than usual.

Very dark blackish ruby. Very earthy but identifiably "Chianti" nose of spicy, gravelly earth, sour dried cherries, and cedar. Lean but flavorful, with lots of earthy, dark cherry fruit up front, but quickly leading to a drying, fairly rustic finish. Gutsy and a bit rough around the edges, but not bad. 85. Was $14 and change from Spec's on Smith. Imported by Ideal Wines and Spirits.

(Sorry, 2002 vintage shown)

2005 Castello d'Albola CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A pretty good, lighter style Chianti that won't break the bank.

Medium-light garnet ruby. High-toned nose of crisp macerated cherries, gravelly earth, and sweet cream. Medium-light bodied, with crisp, relatively high acid flavors of lemons and chokecherries. Pretty typical of the 2005s in Chianti, which tend to have some unusual tension between good ripeness but higher than normal acidity. A refreshing, palate-cleansing style if you're in the mood for that. 85. Was about $17 at Spec's on Holcombe.

A whole bunch of good wines

Mom and Dad came for another visit, and for much of their visit I didn't have time to blog in real time or take detailed wine notes, but we did open up a lot of good stuff. Pretty much special occasion , not everyday quaffers, but what the hey. Here are my quick impressions of them:

2005 Daniel Dampt CHABLIS PREMIER CRU "Cotes de Lechet" -- A wine I reviewed last year, it was holding nicely, with lots of steely, earthy, austere and penetrating (unoaked) Chardonnay fruit. Was about $29 from Flickinger's Wines (on-line) in Chicago.





1989 Chateau Meyney (St. Estephe, Bordeaux) -- Despite non-optimal storage for the last 10 years, this wine has held together nicely. Loads of cedary-peanuty aged Bordeaux scents, with soft, earthy plummy fruit in the mouth.

















2006 Wine Guerrilla "Coffaro Vineyards Old Vine" ZINFANDEL (Dry Creek Valley) -- This Zin was really, really good. Big, spicy, ripe (almost jammy but not quite) nose. Rich and fat in the mouth, but with great balancing acidity keeping it from being ponderous. Spec's has some of this limited production gem for around $32.

2004 Casa Emma CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA -- This was a deep, brooding Chianti, with big earthy, gravelly, gingerbready notes augmenting seriously concentrated macerated cherry fruit. Long, austere finish with some well-hidden tannin. Come back and see this guy in 3-5 years and it will be amazing. About $40 at Spec's.

2005 Turkey Flat Vineyards MOURVEDRE (Barossa Valley, Australia) -- This had loads of deep, ripe blackberry fruit, with a distinctly saline minerality. Mouthfilling and deep. Was about $20 on sale at Kroger's (Yes, Kroger's!) on Westpark near Buffalo Speedway.

2006 Cristom "Eola-Amity Hills PINOT NOIR "Marjorie's Vineyard (Willamette Valley, Oregon) -- Another superb P.N. from this producer. Earthy, spicy sappy cherry nose. Mouthfilling yet exceedingly elegant, with a soft finish that lasted and lasted and lasted . . . . Wow. Was about $40 at Spec's on Smith.

2006 d'Arenberg "The Noble" RIESLING (McLaren Vale, Australia) -- This botrytised late harvest Riesling was a total surprise. Who would have expected an Aussie Riesling to compare with a German Beerenauslese? Not me. But this one did, and at a (relative) bargain price of $18 (Spec's on Smith). Honeyed apricots and peaches, very sweet, intense, flavors, yet with very good acidity for balance. Not as complex as the best German versions, but a bargain in comparison!

2004 Felsina-Berardenga CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA "Rancia" (Tuscany, Italy)

This was a very classy, well-constructed red.

Eye: Dark black ruby with the barest hint of brick.

Nose: Medium-intense nose of minerally gravel, chokecherry liqueur, and wood.

Mouth: Medium full bodied, with very good concentration of minerally cherry pit and cherry liqueur. Not weighty, but with very good flavor concentration nonetheless. Good length and balance too, with some soft, unresolved tannin in the finish.

Score: 88.

Cellar or drink? Drinking well now, I think this could keep and soften for another 2-3 years. I'm concerned about ageing it beyond that, however, given its relatively advanced color and modest weight.

Price/store: Was $27 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

2004 Querciabella CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

This was an intense, old-school Chianti.

Eye: Almost fully saturated, deep black-ruby.

Nose: Intensely extracted nose too -- earthy, schisty-gravel scents, delicately smoky balsa wood notes, and chokecherry liqueur.

Mouth: Large-framed and full-bodied, with old-school flavors of minerally gravel and peppery chokecherry liqueur (again). Structured and intense, with a long finish.

Score: 89.

Cellar or drink? This is starting to drink well now, yet I'm sure this wine would benefit from 2-3 more years of bottle age.

Price/store: Was $27.59 at Richard's on Richmond a few months ago, but I think they're on to the 2005 vintage now (although that year is also supposed to be very good in Tuscany).

2001 Casa Emma CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA (Tuscany, Italy)

The was the second of two amazing Tuscan wines we opened one night (to accompany my Tuscan braised meatloaf) while my parents were visiting from Massachusetts.

Eye: Dark, brickish ruby.

Nose: Sweet cherry, balsa wood, sweet, milky baking spices, and quartzy earth.

Mouth: Concentrated, lively flavors of penetrating, sweet-crisp cherries, ripe lemon juice, and leather. Like a ballet dancer it is so balanced, elegant, and lively.

Score: 92.

Cellar or drink? This is near its peak now, but will certainly hold and possible even improve in a cool cellar over the next 5 years.

Price/store: This was about $42 at Spec's on Smith.

2004 Riecine CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

This was an excellent, traditional-styled, restrained Chianti.

Eye: Dark crystalline ruby.

Nose: Needs a bit of air time to open up, but once it does, it's got a gorgeous, complex nose of brandy-macerated cherries, honey, and Tuscan earth (yes, the earthiness reminded me of Italy!).

Mouth: Soft, medium-bodied, but concentrated, it has flavors of cherries, old barrels, and minerally gravel. Great acid balance, and lots of soft tannin in the long finish.

Cellar or drink? This wine will last and maybe improve over the next 2-3 years in a cool cellar.

Score: 89.

Price/store: I have not seen this well-regarded estate in any Houston stores. I got this from Flickinger Wines in the Chicago area for $19.

2004 Poggio Salvi CHIANTI COLLI SENESI (Tuscany, Italy)

This is a terrific, rustic Tuscan wine -- loaded with flavor -- from the region in Chianti that is closest to the adjoining and much more prestigious Brunello di Montalcino DOC.

Color: Opaque dark black ruby.

Nose: Big, deep, fruity/earthy. Cherries, balsamic notes, old barrels and gravel.

Mouth: Lots of dark chokecherry syrup flavors upon entry, with earthy minerals and iodine flavors. Full-bodied, with some fairly soft tannins making themselves known.

Cellar or drink?: With air, this wine drinks well now, but should keep and perhaps improve for another 2 years.

Score: 90.

Price/store: This wine was a gift from my friend Robert Finley, and I’m not sure where he got it, but Spec’s on Smith lists this one for $12 and change.

2004 San Felice CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

This wine is downright cranky at first, but after a few hours of air time, really opened up into a very high class Sangiovese.

Very dark ruby garnet. Nose very closed at first, but after it opened, it displayed some real elegance, with scents of spiced, sweet balsa wood, cherry, granite, and earth. Concentrated, medium-bodied flavors of cherry liqueur, menthol, and lots of liquid minerals. Long finish, with substantial, but fine-grained, tannins. 89. This will will likely age and improve over the next 3-4 years. Was $18 at Spec's on Smith.

2001 Badia a Coltibuono CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA (Tuscany, Italy)

This was a very elegant, restrained, yet characterful Chianti we enjoyed while entertaining our friends from Austin, the Hughens.



Dark ruby garnet color. Medium intensity nose of ripe chokecherries and smoky stones. Broad, soft, lightish mouthfeel, with flavors of cherry, new leather, and spice. Lovely, long finish. Not a blockbuster, but very polished. 89. I would drink this now, as I'm not convinced it's going to improve over the next few years. $29 and change at Spec's on Smith.