2007 Castello d'Albola CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

This was a solid, correct, if unexciting, Chianti.

Clear dark ruby color.  Medium intensity nose of winey cherries and licorice, along with notes of scorched gravel.  Lots of straightforward dark cherry fruit and scorched earth flavors.  Soft texture and medium bodied, with just barely enough acidity to prevent it from being dull-feeling.  A bit of gritty tannin in the mouth.  Not complex, but identifiably Chianti and possessing decent character.  B-.  Was $16.99 on sale at Randall's on Buffalo Speedway and Holcombe.  Imported by Zonin Imports.

2007 Casa Emma CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

This wine was in a very soft, easy-going style.  A bit less structured and simpler than is usual, in my opinion, from this very good producer.

Dark ruby garnet.  Scents of warm gravel and cherries.  Soft, easygoing flavors of sandstone, bright cherry fruit, and steely minerals.  Very soft texture and decent acidity.  Ideal for red-sauced pasta dishes over the next year.  B-.  Imported by Margaux and Associates, I got this for about $18 at Spec's.

2007 Isole e Olena CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A ripe, earthy, fleshy style of Chianti. Not what I normally go for, but I liked it a lot anyway.

Medium ruby garnet. Fragrant nose of wet gravel, sandstone, smoky balsa wood, blackberries, and sweet, dried cherries. Rich, ripe, and complex -- a lower acid, riper style -- with broad flavors of sweet cherri liqueur, smoke, tobacco, and minerally earth. Very good concentration. Very long finish. 90. Drink over the next 18 months. Was $17.99 from B-21 Wines in Florida. Imported by Stacole Wines.

2008 Morisfarms MORELLINO DI SCANSANO (Southern Tuscany, Italy)

Comparing (very generally) the Sangiovese-based wines from Morellino di Scansano to Chianti Classicos, I'd have to say that the primary difference is that the Morellinos tend to have a more loamy earthiness and a darker-toned fruitiness, as opposed to the gravelly/schisty earthiness and piercing, more high-toned cherry fruit of the CC's. This Morisfarms (weird name) is a really nice example of a good Morellino.

Sultry dark ruby color. Medium intensity nose of earthy, dark berries, scorched earth, and cedar. Soft, ripe, and full-flavored, with lots of earthy minerals and brambly berry flavors the last to leave their impression in the mouth. Very good example of this rustic style of Sangiovese. 88. Imported by Polaner Selections. Can't remember where I got this, but I know it was under $20.

2006 Castello di Rampolla CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

I think I'm getting to the point where I generally like the regular Chianti Classicos better than the more expensive Riserva bottlings. More accessible in aromas and texture when young and completely unobscured by any noticeable oakiness. Not to mention much cheaper.

This one rocked! Very rich dark ruby color. Fantastically fragrant nosed morphed over time. Started out really earthy but then the fruit emerged. Sweet, smoky schist/gravel and rich, plummy fruit. Intensely concentrated and ripe, with quartz-laced earthiness throughout the rich, ripe cherry fruit, and excellent acidity adding freshness. Still loads of fine0grained tannin in the long, mineral-laced finish. Fantastic, old-school Chianti. 90. Imported by Vias Imports. $30 from zachys.com (New York)

2007 Carpineto CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A very solid and satisfying Chianti. Good value.

Dark black ruby with the barest beginnings of ambering at the rim. Big, boisterous, old-fashioned Chianti nose of winey cherry liqueur, smoky gravel, and old barrels. Weighty and concentrated, with penetrating, earthy cherry fruitiness, great acidity, and a load of fairly soft, drying tannin in the finish. Rustic (for a Classico) and very good. 88. Was about $17 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Opici Imports.

2007 Viticcio CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

Wow! This was utterly classic Chianti. I wish I could find it in Houston.

Sultry dark black ruby. With substantial airing, it developed a fantastic nose of ripe cherry liqueur, spice cake, and incense-infused warm gravel. Complex and round, medium full-bodied. Had concentrated but lithe flavors of ripe cherry liqueur, tons of clean, stony minerals, and a lengthy, smoky cherry-skin finish. Some nicely-integrated soft tannin adds a welcome bit of structure. Good but unobtrusive acidity. 90. Imported by Massanois Imports, D.C. I got this for $17 from Zachy's in Scarsdale, N.Y. a few months ago.

(Sorry, 2006 shown)

2006 San Felice CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A textbook, classically-built Chianti.

Nearly saturated dark, crystalline ruby with a little garnet tint. Needs substantial air time (or to be poured through a Vinturi) for the nose to develop. Starts off closed and pungently minerally, but morphs into a classic nose of ripe chokecherries, minerally gravel, old barrel scents, and lemon zest. Soft as velvet and medium-bodied, with a refreshing lift in the mouth. Minerally/gravelly-infused cherry fruit. With just a tad bit more concentration, this would have been perfect! As it is, it's pure, refreshing, and has good length. Very little tannin is noticeable. Will make great drinking with a wide variety of Italian dishes over the next year. 88. Imported by Margaux and Associates. Was $16 and change at Spec's on Smith.

2006 San Leonino CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A very nicely-done Chianti.

Very dark, plasma-like ruby. Textbook Chianti nose of ripe chokecherries, along with smoky gravel. Good concentration and weight, with good balancing acidity and a bit of soft tannin. Flavors of ripe cherries and dark berries, with loads of dried-earthy, stony minerals. Fairly long finish. A very solid effort. 88. Was $16.49 at Spec's on Smith, making it a good buy. Imported by Wilson Daniels.

2006 Castello La Leccia CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A rather chunky and four-square Chianti. Satisfying, but neither elegant nor complex.

Very crystalline dark ruby. Somewhat reticent nose, but with coaxing, ripe, tangy dark cherry fruit, sweet cream, lemon juice, and hot gravel scents emerge. Focused and muscular in the mouth, with direct, dark cherry fruit and loads of slightly bitter minerals. Full-bodied (for a Chianti), with a slightly tannic mouthfeel. Its chunky, direct style would pair well with vary garlicky tomato sauces or a puttanesca sauce with lots of anchovies and olives. 86. Imported by Vituoso Selections (Austin, TX). Was about $16 and change at Spec's on Smith.

(Sorry, 2002 pictured).

2007 Erik Banti MORELLINO DI SCANSANO (Southern Tuscany, Italy)

This is a typical, solid Sangiovese from this reliable Morellino producer.

Dark, blackish ruby. Earthy, deep-toned nose of dark black cherries macerated in cherry eau-de-vie, with charcoal and balsa wood notes. Concentrated, medium-full bodied, with some rustic tannin, this wine is ripe, with good fruit/acid/alcohol balance and moathcoating, smoky dark fruit flavors. Very nice finish. Not elegant, but a satisfying mouthful. 87. Imported by Margaux and Associates. Once again, no receipt, but I think I got this one at Central Market for around $19.

(Sorry, 2005 label shown)

UPDATE -- Got this at Spec's on Smith for $14.99, so disregard the guess above.

2005 Casanova di Neri ROSSO DI MONTALCINO (Tuscany, Italy)

A very classy Sangiovese Grosso from southern Tuscany.

Dark black ruby garnet. Deep-toned nose of dark, earthy, macerated black cherries, incense, and smoky embers. Densely-fruited, but tightly-wound, it featured rich, dark cherry fruit, with loads of crushed stone and gravel notes. Full and bone-dry, with excellent acid balance. Lots of soft tannin still resides in the long finish. Drink over the next two years. 88. Was $25 and change at Richard's on Richmond just west of Chimney Rock. Sorry, forgot to note the importer.

2006 Felsina-Berardenga CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

This "entry-level" Chianti from a respected producer is very nice. A classic-styled Sangiovese from a classic terroir.

Youthful, medium-saturation black ruby. Nice, exuberant nose of sweet cream, macerated, tangy bu ripe cherries, and gravelly minerals. Nicely-focused, medium weight flavors of winey cherries and dried gravelly earth. A fair amount of tannin and a tight core of fruit augur for 1-2 more years of beneficial cellaring to soften and expand. 87+. Was $18.99 at Spec's on Smith, making it a fairly good value for a Chianti Classico. (Sorry, forgot to make a note of the importer.)

2004 ColdiSole ROSSO DI MONTALCINO (Tuscany, Italy)

This wine was, to my mind, clearly heat-damaged at some point.

Very advanced brownish-ruby color. Intensely "winey" nose of sweet-and-sour cherry liqueur (some volatile acidity, i.e., acetic acid, lurking in the background), vanilla, and old leather. Extremely tannic, with a very flat, dead feel in the mouth. Slightly stewed flavor of flat old cherry juice and old leaves. What a shame, particularly since I dropped $26 smackers on this at Spec's.

2006 Fattoria di Vetrice CHIANTI RUFINA (Tuscany, Italy)

This wine, which is the basic, entry-level non-Riserva from this winery, is usually a good buy. The 2006 is good, but a bit earthier than usual.

Very dark blackish ruby. Very earthy but identifiably "Chianti" nose of spicy, gravelly earth, sour dried cherries, and cedar. Lean but flavorful, with lots of earthy, dark cherry fruit up front, but quickly leading to a drying, fairly rustic finish. Gutsy and a bit rough around the edges, but not bad. 85. Was $14 and change from Spec's on Smith. Imported by Ideal Wines and Spirits.

(Sorry, 2002 vintage shown)

2006 Castello Romitorio ROSSO DI MONTALCINO (Tuscany, Italy)

Very good but not worth the price. Rosso di Montalcinos usually command a $5 -$10 premium over their cousins just to the north (the Chianti Classicos), but I tend towards the Chiantis. The clone of Sangiovese used in Montalcino, to my taste, tends towards darker, lower-toned flavors (which I occasionally crave); Chianti Classicos tend to have higher-toned, more cherryish fruit and a brighter mouthfeel.

This was very dark-colored with some brickish tinges at the rim. Low-toned nose whose primary component was scorched earth, along with some dark black cherry scents. Broadly-flavored, deep-toned plummy fruit, with the back end comprising mostly scorched earth and mineral notes. Lots of tannin (although it was not harsh tannin, by any stretch). Might be better and softer in a year or 2. 86+ Was pushing $25 at Spec's on Smith. (Vinifera Imports.)

2005 Castello d'Albola CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

A pretty good, lighter style Chianti that won't break the bank.

Medium-light garnet ruby. High-toned nose of crisp macerated cherries, gravelly earth, and sweet cream. Medium-light bodied, with crisp, relatively high acid flavors of lemons and chokecherries. Pretty typical of the 2005s in Chianti, which tend to have some unusual tension between good ripeness but higher than normal acidity. A refreshing, palate-cleansing style if you're in the mood for that. 85. Was about $17 at Spec's on Holcombe.

2004 Felsina-Berardenga CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA "Rancia" (Tuscany, Italy)

This was a very classy, well-constructed red.

Eye: Dark black ruby with the barest hint of brick.

Nose: Medium-intense nose of minerally gravel, chokecherry liqueur, and wood.

Mouth: Medium full bodied, with very good concentration of minerally cherry pit and cherry liqueur. Not weighty, but with very good flavor concentration nonetheless. Good length and balance too, with some soft, unresolved tannin in the finish.

Score: 88.

Cellar or drink? Drinking well now, I think this could keep and soften for another 2-3 years. I'm concerned about ageing it beyond that, however, given its relatively advanced color and modest weight.

Price/store: Was $27 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

2004 Poggio Salvi MORELLINO DI SCANSANO "I Butteri" (Tuscany, Italy)

This was a funky but not totally unpleasant Morellino.

Eye: Black ruby with some amber tones.

Nose: Big, earthy nose, with lots of old leathery, pruney, and old wine barrel scents.

Mouth: Very rustic in the mouth, and not showing a lot of Sangiovese varietal character: full bodied, with lots of peppery pruney flavors, and a finish that tapered into dried leather.

Score: 77.

Cellar or drink? Drink now if you've already got some, as this is probably going to get more disjointed and funky as time goes on. If you don't already have some, don't bother.

Price/store: Was $17.99 at Houston Wine Merchant.

2005 Fattoria la Peschiera MORELLINO DI SCANSANO (Tuscany, Italy)

This wine was a bit of a disappointment, delivering some nice fragrance and nice, crisp acidity, but was hollow in the middle palate. When I was looking at the label at Central Market in Austin, one of the wine guys accosted me and started extolling the heck out of this one, so I gave it a shot, but alas.

Eye: Very bright, almost pulsating ruby-crimson color.

Nose: Spry aromas of winey cherries and sweat (in a kinda pleasant way).

Mouth: Flavors of minerals, sweat, and cherries flare quickly on the palate, then die, leaving a finish dominated by tannin and acidity.

Score: 80.

Cellar or drink? I'd drink this over the next year as it simply lacks the concentration of fruit needed to develop with age.

Price/store: Was $18.99 at Central Market in Austin.