red-state-imdb

2009 MontGras "QUATRO" (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec, 15% Carmenere, and 15% Syrah) (Colchagua Valley, Chile)

I have had several vintages of this dark Chilean red and they have all been very good or better.  This is another winner, and it remains a very good value.

Completely saturated plasma color.  Wonderful nose of blackberry and ripe cassis, along with smoky balsa wood and lemony minerals.  Rich, mouthfilling flavors of blackberry syrup, graphite, and iodine-laced minerals.  Very full-bodied and tannic, but soft enough to drink now.  This wine will easily compete with California Cabernets costing three times as much, but this wine has less obtrusive oak and will go better with food.  Acidity is a bit low, but it doesn't feel flabby or out of balance.  B+.  I got this for around $13 at Kroger's on Westpark/Buffalo Speedway.

2007 Mas Champart SAINT-CHINIAN "Causse du Bousquet" (Languedoc, Southern France)

A really good and distinctive wine at its peak.*  65% Syrah, 15% Grenache; 20% Mourvedre.


Completely saturated black color with ruby highlights.  Deep, complex nose of blackberry compote, toasty, saline-tinged sandstone, and roast pork.  Mouthfilling, yet not as heavy as the color would lead you to expect.  It has intensely minerally/stony flavbors enveloping a core of very ripe cassis fruit.  Loads of tannin but it is so fine-grained that the textural impression is soft.  Very stone/minerally finish.  Surprisingly good acidity for a wine from this region (that's not to say the acidity is high, but that it's not too low).  Nicely balanced.  A-.  Imported by Kermit Lynch, I got this from Zachys.com several months ago for $16/bottle.


*  I say "at its peak" because while it was still good the second night, it started to noticeably deteriorate the third night, even though I had it vacuum sealed.  That generally indicates to me that a wine is at or near peaking.

Cheap Bourgogne Rouge Death Match (Bout 2)

On the next card we have Domaine Pierre Labet (one of Spec's featured producers) versus the ubiquitous house of Louis Latour.

First Place:  2008 Domaine Pierre Labet Bourgogne Pinot Noir "Vieilles Vignes" -- Medium light ruby.  Medium intensity nose of sappy, sour cherries and sweet, moist, smoky earth.  Bone dry, but with decent concentration of fruit in the mid-palate, along with a pronounced stony minerality.  Thins out a bit on the finish, but is clean and quite pleasant.  Still a bit of tannin showing.  Drink with the next 18 months. B.  Imported by Horizon Wines, Houston.  Was $19 and change at most Spec's stores.


Second Place:  2009 Louis Latour Bourgogne Pinot Noir -- Medium light ruby color.  Shy but fresh nose of sour cherry and minerals, with some lemon coated rock dust.  Crisp, very light flavors of vague cherry fruit and brambly twigs quickly spread through the mouth but thin out quickly.  Some tannin but not much weight of flavor concentration.  This wine has a bitterness that grows as the finish wears on.  C.   $16 and change at most Spec's stores (and lots of other places).



Moral of the Two Deathmatches:  This Burgundian throwdown nicely displayed the difficult reality of searching for bargain Burgundian Pinot Noirs:  the ones that are worth it (like the '09 Bertrand Ambroise) are few and far between.  Many are OK, but I'm usually left wishing I had spent my $15-20 on a Chianti Classico, a Cotes du Rhone, a Zinfandel, a Spanish Grenache, or a small grower Beaujolais-Villages.

Cheap Bourgogne Rouge Death Match

Since I wasn't able to do my Cotes du Rhone battle royale, when recent guests gifted me with a Joseph Drouhin "LaForet" Bourgone Pinot Noir -- a widely-available, reasonably-priced red burgundy -- I decided to pick two more at around the same price and open all three entry-level French PNs all at once.

The result:  CHEAP BURGUNDY DEATH MATCH.  I picked up the equally-widely-available and reasonably priced Louis Jadot Bourgogne, and, to throw in a David with these commercial Goliaths, a Bourgogne Rouge from the relatively smaller producer, Bertrand Ambroise.  Here are the results.

1st Place:  2009 Bertrand Ambroise Bourgogne -- The nose was very youthful, like it had just been bottled, but it had more body and flavor than the other two.  Bright ruby with magenta highlights.  Big, youthful nose of concentrated, crushed cherry and pomegranate, along with rock dust and grated lemon zest.  Youthful and mouthfilling (for a Bourgogne) with tightly wound black cherry and brambly earth flavors.  Fine-grained tannin coats the mouth as the clingy finish wears on.  This will keep and improve over the next three years.  B(+) (which means it's a B right now, but with age should get better).  Imported by Robert Kacher.  $19 and change at Spec's on Smith.

2nd Place:  2008 Joseph Drouhin "Laforet" Bourgone Pinot Noir -- This was more developed in the nose, and had nice, correct Pinot flavors, but was a little light.  Medium-light ruby showing a little amber hue.  Bright nose of pure, sappy, crisp cherries and a hint of stoniness.  Bright cherry fruit at first impression in the mouth, followed by some light but kind of coarse tannin.  Clean, but short and thin finish.  This is a pleasant wine but needs drinking up over the next 6 months.  B-.  Imported by Dreyfus-Ashby, it sells for $16 and change at Spec's.


3rd Place:  2008 Louis Jadot Bourgogne Pinot Noir -- This was light on the nose, light and somewhat lacking in life in the mouth, but had a clean finish.  Bright, medium ruby.  Relatively closed nose reluctantly gives up scents of tart cherry candy and chalk.  Correct but somewhat flat cherry flavors, but diluted-tasting.  Clean, medium length finish.  Drink over the next 12-18 months.  C+.  Imported by Kobrand, it was $17 and change at Spec's.

2009 Thibault Liger-Belair MOULIN-A-VENT "Vieilles Vignes" (Beaujolais, France)

This was a very good, very large-boned, soulful wine.  But I wasn't thrilled with it at first because it really tastes like it has little in common with Beaujolais from other towns in the region.  I think I am coming to the realization that, even though Moulin-a-Vent is considered by many the pinnacle of Beaujolais, it's just not a style I like as Beaujolais as much as the other communes (like Cote de Brouilly, Julienas, Regnie, etc.)  Moulin-a-Vents tend to be bigger, more structured, earthier, and do not have the crunchy, vibrant, granite-laced cherry fruit I love when I think of Beaujolais.

And perhaps that's my problem:  I'm measuring Moulin-a-Vents against a Beaujolais background, when, really, to me, it tastes like something other than Beaujolais.  Maybe I'd enjoy them more if I could purge my mind of "Beaujolais-think" when I'm drinking these.

Anyway . . .  This had an almost completely saturated, very black-hued ruby color.  It was extremely earthy at first in a dry, barnyardy kind of way, but after airing, intensely stony scents began to dominate, along with some crisp, dark cherry and plum skin fruit.  It was mouthfilling and bone dry, with intense acidity as well.  Exceedingly stony, minerally flavors dominate, but with blackberry fruit underneath all that terroir.  Long, dry, intense, and fairly tannic (for Beaujolais) finish.  This wine clearly needs some bottle ageing to settle down and let the flavors fill out to fit the physical structure of the wine.  Still, it's very enjoyable with food right now.  Just don';t think of it as a Beaujolais.  Think of it more as a Gigondas, but made with Gamay instead of Rhone varietals.  B+(+)*.  Was $25 from B-21 Wines in Florida.

* The "(+)" means that the wine may well improve with 1-3 years in a cool cellar or wine fridge.

NV Segura Viudas BRUT ROSÉ (Spain)

Our guests the Murphys brought this over, and it got polished off before I could take notes, so these impressions are from memory.

Very nice pink color and lots of fine, persistent bubbles.  Great, fresh aromas of crisp, cool strawberries and bread.  Very lively, fruity, and clean in the mouth, with really good balance.  Very refreshing.

I was surprised how good this was, probably because of my own prejudices. When I was a wholesale wine rep in NYC in the early 80s, the most popular wine in my line was Freixenet (in the jet black bottle), and at that point Freixenet and the competing brands of Spanish sparklers were pretty characterless.

Spec's website lists this for $8 and change, making it a FANTASTIC VALUE.

2009 Rabbit Ridge ZINFANDEL "Estate Grown" (Paso Robles, Cal.)

A bit too oaky and overripe for my taste.  Those who like massive, thickly-fruity Zins with lots of new oak will like this better than I did.

Dark ruby with a hint of brick.  Rich, very ripe nose: Sweet blackberry syrup and loads of smoky wood.  Low-toned in the mouth, with inky flavors of dark, dry blackberry syrup, sweet oak, and graphite.  Very low acidity and loads of body.  Concentrated, but a bit overripe and out of balance (the label says 14.9% alc., which isn't that far over the top for Zin, but it tasted far riper than that).  Very fine-grained tannin coats the mouth in the finish.  B-.  Was $15.57 at Spec's on Weslayan and Bissonnet.

2006 Tenuta Cocci Grifoni ROSSO PICENO "Le Torri" (Marche, Italy)

This was a good, fairly classicly-styled Rosso Piceno, but it was a year or two past its prime.

General background to this lesser known Italian red:  Rosso Piceno is the less distinguished, more common cousin of Rosso Conero.  Both wines feature the intensely-flavored Montepulciano grape, but Rosso Conero is pure (or nearly so) Montepulciano, grown in the volcanic soil surrounding Monte Conero.  Rosso Piceno is blended with substantial amounts of Sangiovese, and is grown is a more varied bunch of vineyard sites with more fertile, less volcanic soil.  The result, generally speaking is that Conero is more intense and complex, and Piceno a bit lighter, with less depth and mineral complexity (and less ageing potential).  Alas, however, producers in both regions are currently taken with the "international" style of winemaking (meaning stainless steel fermenters and ageing in brand new small French oak barrels), which tends to result in wines that have generic-tasting red fruit and scents of toasty oak.  In other words, it tastes decent but you have a hard time distinguishing it from decent reds made anywhere else in the world.  To my taste, the old school methods (fermenting in large wooden or concrete vessels and ageing in very large oak vats) tended to let the inherent qualities of the grapes and soil shine through much more.  But it's getting harder and harder to find any of the traditionally made Marche reds in the U.S.

Back to the wine:  Dark brickish ruby color.  Mature, reasonably complex nose of smoked sandstone and dry twigs overshadows some dark, brandy-macerated cherry fruit.  Inky but not heavy flavors of graphite and dark, low-toned plummy/blackberry fruit, along with gravelly notes.  Soft texture and full-bodied, but with a relatively light mouthfeel.  Those who like mature, rather than youthful, wines will like this more than I did.  I would drink this up before next spring.  B.  Imported by Empson USA, I got this for $19.95 at Houston Wine Merchant.

WWII Homefront Pictures in Living Color

A compelling gallery of images, and a stark departure from the grainy black and white images we have of America's greatest generation.

2010 Chateau Routas "Rouviere" ROSÉ (Coteaux Varois en Provence, France)

Fantastic rosé and a great value!  But it tasted like a much more expensive Sancerre Pinot Noir rosé than a rosé from Provence -- which is strange given that this wine is a blend of Provencal varietals (Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, and Cabernet) and has no Pinot Noir in it.  But that's fine by me, since Sancerre rosés are my favorites.


Gorgeous, delicate light coppery color.  Fresh, high-toned nose of flowers, strawberry, and chalky minerals.  Beautiful, light-textured dry strawberry/cherry juice fruit in the mouth.  Medium-light body and excellent, crisp acids.  A little minerality in the clean finish completes it.  If I were served this blind, there is no way I would have placed it as a Provencal rosé.  This screams Sancerre.  A.  Was $11 and change at Spec's on Weslayan and Bissonnet.

Bachmann Wins in Iowa

Michelle Bachmann wins the Iowa straw poll. Congresswoman Bachmann who hails from the buckeye state stressed her faith and her opposition to abortion and gay marrage. Bachmann prompted hearty cheers from audiences when she announced:  We are going to make Barack Obama a one-term president! While the results of the Iowa straw do not guarantee the candidate will carry the day all the way to the primaries and election day, one candidate who did win all three contests, twice in a row, was President George W. Bush.

Light summer pasta with vegetables

I improvised this because when I was at Spec's (on Smith) last week, they had these great looking little baby zucchinis.  I hope I'm remembering correctly what the heck I did.  It was very nice.

1 lb box of pasta

Eight 2” baby zucchinis, cut into thin matchsticks

One good size carrot, peeled, cut into 2” pieces, then cut into matchsticks

One stalk crisp celery, cut into 2” pieces, then cut into matchsticks

¼ cup chopped onions

Three green onions (scallions), white part cut into thin rounds and green part into 1” long pieces

1/3 cup dry white wine

Two cloves garlic, lightly crushed

10 basil leaves, torn into small pieces

A few sprigs parsley, finely chopped

¼ cup good olive oil

Salt

Pepper

Red pepper flakes

Freshly grated parmesan cheese (optional)

Get pot of water boiling for pasta.  While it’s heating, you’re going to slightly soften the veggies to “crisp tender”.  You don’t want to brown them or make them mushy.  Start with the ones that take the longest to soften and progress to the ones that cook quickest:

In 12” sauté pan, heat olive oil over medium heat, add carrot, garlic, and onions, and soften for a few minutes.

Add celery and soften a few minutes more.

Add zucchini and green onions and soften.

Watch the heat and time to avoid browning or making veggies too soggy.

Add white wine, salt and red and black pepper, bring quickly to a boil then simmer for a minute or two to reduce the wine a little.  That’s it, veggies/sauce is done.  Turn off heat.  Drain pasta when done and toss with veggies/sauce and herbs.

Top with grated cheese if you like.

Serve with a chilled Sauvignon Blanc-based wine or a dry rosé.

2009 Chateau Magence GRAVES Blanc (White Bordeaux)

This blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon (the typical white varietals that are blended together for most whites in this region) has LOTS of character--maybe too much for some--but is kind of a clumsy bruiser of a white.

Light gold color.  Big, open, chameleon-like nose that changes on every sniff.  First intensely grassy and burnt herbal (from the Sauvignon Blanc), then showing lots of waxy, lanolin scents (from the Semillon), then golden delicious apple and gooseberry scents.  Big and mouthfilling, with loads of grassy/herbal fruit, but an intense bitterness hits the palate quickly and stays throughout the finish.  It's dry and low in acidity, giving it a fleshier texture than many other whites from this region.  If Alex Karras's Mongo character in Blazing Saddles was a white wine, this would be him.  This wine will definitely polarize people.  B-.  Got it at Whole Foods on Bellaire for $13.99. 

2007 Castello d'Albola CHIANTI CLASSICO (Tuscany, Italy)

This was a solid, correct, if unexciting, Chianti.

Clear dark ruby color.  Medium intensity nose of winey cherries and licorice, along with notes of scorched gravel.  Lots of straightforward dark cherry fruit and scorched earth flavors.  Soft texture and medium bodied, with just barely enough acidity to prevent it from being dull-feeling.  A bit of gritty tannin in the mouth.  Not complex, but identifiably Chianti and possessing decent character.  B-.  Was $16.99 on sale at Randall's on Buffalo Speedway and Holcombe.  Imported by Zonin Imports.

Ann Althouse Assaulted by Leftists at Wisconsin State Capital

No surprise that leftists would harass and later attack the petite Ann Althouse as she and her family and friends record protestors at a Madison, Wisconsin singalong. You see the attack early on in the video.

Beyond the assault, the especially disturbing part of the video is the reaction of the police to her son's report on the event. The policeman's comment to the family in effect is that her family should stand by and endure physical assault and just call the police. Just let the police handle it is the reply. Courts have established in the past that policemen are not personal body guards. The policeman's comment is flawed beyond the most basic form of common reasoning.

That same mind set is rampant in Great Britain, where police were agonizing for days over what would be the appropriate use of force to stop, perchance dissuade rioters and looters from burning down all of London. Paul A. Rhae has an insightful article about up about the malaise of liberalism acting in the role of adjudicator between crime and punishment at Ricochet titled, Rioting for Fun and Profit. One excerpt reads: One evening, a group of thugs took the train into Cambridge from a nearby town, walked to Clare Hall, hurled bricks through the windows, broke into the apartments, stole computers, then marched to the train station and journeyed home. No one was ever caught.

I am told that fewer than ten percent of burglaries are solved and that, of those who are convicted, fewer than ten percent do time. In effect, there is no law and there is no order in Britain. You cannot bear arms. You are denied the means of self-defense. It is illegal to use force to defend your property. If you use “disproportionate force” in defending your person, you can and will be jailed. It is demanded that you leave all such matters to the police, and law enforcement is ineffectual. Not surprisingly, even before the riots that Britain is suffering right now, theft and violent crime were considerably greater there than in the United States.

If thugs can feel free to assault people in broad daylight without fear of arrest or the dispensation of justice, then we are all in peril.

Reverend Al's Cavalcade of Struggle: Resist We Much!

Another immortal entry in the anals of agenda "journalism". What new words of encouragement and inspiration will the Rev' offer to sooth the long-suffering proletariat? Perhaps dear Reverend can exhort the downtrodden in the ways of sustainable living, with the clarion call of: "Go Green, We Mulch!".

Worst Legislation In History?

Three weeks ago, Democrats in the Senate led by Senate Majority Leader Harry Reid defeated the Cut Cap and Balance Act of 2011, calling it "some of the worst legislation in history". In a nutshell, the bill would Cut spending, Cap the budget at a certain percentage of the GDP, and required a Balanced budget amendment. Here is the rundown of the bill's key points.



Cut

Cuts total spending by $111 billion in FY 2012. The savings is divided as follows:

Reduce non-security discretionary spending below 2008 levels, which saves $76 billion.

$35 billion cut to non-veterans, non-Medicare, non-Social Security mandatory spending.

Defense budget at President’s level.

CAP

Total federal spending is scaled back based on the glide path for the fiscal years below:

• 2012, 22.5% of GDP.
• 2013, 21.7% of GDP.
• 2014, 20.8% of GDP.
• 2015, 20.2% of GDP.
• 2016, 20.2% of GDP.
• 2017, 20.0% of GDP.
• 2018, 19.7% of GDP.
• 2019, 19.9% of GDP.
• 2020, 19.9% of GDP.
• 2021, 19.9% of GDP.

BALANCE

Requires the passage of a Balanced Budget Amendment before raising the nation’s debt limit.



The bill was killed on a partisan vote 51-46 with all 51 being Democrats. John Kerry and Kirsten Gillibrand did not vote, but I'll give you one guess how they would have. John McCain was the lone abstaining Republican.



Fast forward 3 weeks to today. The S&P has downgraded the United States debt credit rating from AAA to AA+, and Democrats in government are pissed. They send the S&P to an SEC hearing as to why they downgraded the credit rating. The question was finally asked what kind of budget cuts would have saved the AAA rating. Joydeep Mukherji answered with this;

“What S&P wanted to see from the deal was a stabilization in the debt-to-GDP ratio over time,” he said. “We wanted to see something other than a line that kept going up. That’s what we didn’t see.”



Ironic how "the worst legislation in history" actually contained EXACTLY what would have saved the United State's AAA rating.

Why I typically don’t drink certain stuff

I’m prejudiced.  I admit it.  Against certain kinds of wines.  I have stereotypical notions of them, and as a result, I just don’t buy and drink many of them.  I don’t give them a chance to break the stereotype.  I have a limited wine budget, and there are so many other kinds of wine I like better.

So in an exercise of reverse wine-blogging, I’m going to list the kinds of wines I typically don’t even consider buying and why.  I’m not saying I’m right.  It’s just my preferences and my opinions.  But I thought it would be useful information for my 15 loyal readers.

California Cabernets

They tend to be expensive.  And got tired of them.  They all seem to be shooting for the same style.  Big mouthcoating cassis/graphite and new oak flavors.  No acidity, virtually no sense of where it came from.  Plus, I don’t cook a hell of a lot that oaky, ripe, large-scaled Cabernet-based wines would complement.  

California Merlots

I don’t buy these for a lot of the same reasons I don’t buy Cal Cabs.  Plus, during the 1990s Merlot explosion, Merlot was planted all over the damn place, willy-nilly, to meet uncritical demand.  So there’s just a lot of crappy Merlot, grown in places unsuited to it, floating around.

Classified Growth Bordeaux

They’re expensive.  Many are over-oaked and picked too ripe, in an effort to please affluent wine drinkers who think in terms of the magnitude of fruit and easily discernable new oak.  And like Cal Cabs, this style of Bordeaux doesn’t go with much that I cook (and as to those that might complement things like steaks and chops, I like other stuff better).  That said, I do like a less expensive, non-oaky, non-overripe Cru Bourgeois every now and again.

Italian Whites

Now here I’m being very unfair.  Since the 1980s Pinot Grigio craze (when every soiree or party featured PGs that were so diluted they tasted like barely acidified slightly bitter alcohol water, leading everyone and their dog to produce wines of this ilk), the general quality level of Italian whites has increased.  But I don’t drink a ton of white, and when I do, I want something I know I’ll like better, like a German or Alsace Riesling, a Loire white, or an unoaked minerally Macon or Chablis. 

Aussie Shirazes

I generally find them tiring and uninteresting, with jammy, thick fruit and oak hiding whatever earth-driven virtues they may have—particularly the more expensive ones.  Still, I’ll occasionally buy a cheaper one from a good producer, figuring that they wouldn’t waste new oak on them or try for maximum extract on a cheaper offering.

Brunellos

What, you say?  How can an Italian, Italo-vinophile, amateur Italian cook not buy Brunello?  Well, the rent is too damn high, for one thing.  Beyond expense, I find that the clone of Sangiovese used for most Brunellos (which is different from the clone used for Chianti Classico) results in a very low-toned, dark fruit character, usually augmented by liberal use of oak, which together results in wines that don’t go particularly well with food.  At least the food I cook.

Rioja and other Tempranillo-based Spanish reds

I find Tempranillo to be a bland grape.  It typically doesn’t do a lot for me.  Plus, the better Riojas tend to be too oaky for my taste.  The old school uses too much American oak; the new school uses too much French oak.  I don’t like too much of any oak.  Except when I smoke a brisket.

“Super Tuscans” and Bolgheris

I don’t drink these almost on principle.  Grow Sangiovese and other indigenous varietals in Tuscany.  Leave Cabernet and Merlot to the Bordeaux and California guys. 

Barberas

I usually find them to be too acidy, too rough, too simple, and too short-finished.  There are much better options in the $10-20 range for wines to complement rustic foods.

Grand Cru Burgundies (red and white)

Can’t afford them.  That’s the only reason.  I actually love them.  But the growing gap between the rich and the rest of us has put them out of my reach.  I blame George Bush.

Hermitage and Cote Rotie

Same deal.  Love ’em.  Can’t afford ’em.  Thanks, Tea Party, er, I mean Wine Spectator.  Actually, this is probably the result of my career not following the stratospheric arc I had hoped for.  Thanks, George Bush.  (I can’t help myself, apparently.)

Anything a renown “oenological consultant” made or consulted on

I like wines that reflect the idiosyncrasies of the soil and the individual grower/winemaker.  I have no use for cookie cutter recipes.  I try to avoid wines which celebrity consultants like Phillipe Cambie, Michel Rolland, Riccardo Cotarella had a hand in.  I’m sure some of their wines are quite good.  But I’d rather support individuals making individualistic wines.

********************************

I know, I know, I’ve grossly overgeneralized here.  But as I said, these are my prejudices.  I can’t afford on a limited budget to seek exceptions to prove my rules wrong.  But please let me know if you know of exceptions!

That’s it for now.  I may augment or change this list in the future.  I hope that revealing my prejudices might provide additional context for my wine choices and my tasting notes.

2009 Hesketh GRENACHE "Wild at Heart" (South Australia)

Not the deepest or most complex Aussie Grenache I've had, but flavorful, balanced, and satisfying.  I think Grenache goes with many of the Italian dishes I tend to cook, which is odd, given that it's a grape that is grown only in one small area in Italy (a clone of Grenache called Cannonau is grown on the island of Sardinia).

Medium dark ruby.  Direct, big nose of kirsch, crushed stones, and lemon juice.  Full-bodied, with straight-on ripe, spicy raspberry fruit and a dry, saline, gravelly minerality that comes on in the finish.  Pretty big, but with good acidity for a Grenache from down-under, and a long, juicy finish.  B+.  Was $13 and change at Spec's on Smith.

2008 Domaine d'Ardhuy LADOIX "Chagnots" (Burgundy, France)

One of my two "Holy Grails" of wine is a good, inexpensive (which these days means under $20) red burgundy (Pinot Noir).  This is one.  On the leaner side but with real character, particularly the second night.  The village of Ladoix is one of those less well-known "sleeper" appellations in Burgundy (along with Santenay, Auxey-Duresses, and Pernand-Vergelesses) where values, as rare as they are there, tend to be more frequent.

Light ruby color with a touch of amber beginning to show at the rim.  Fragrant, high-toned nose of peat and ripe but crisp crushed cherry, along with stony gravel.  Crisp, penetrating flavors of tart cherry, with powdered limestone and granite.  Not a lot of concentration or weight, but clingy flavors and very nice purity, energy, and minerality.  Good length. B+.   Was $19 and change at Spec's (cash price).  A Becky Wasserman Selection (she represents several excellent French estates, as an exporter I think, and her selections are imported by various importers in different regions of the U.S.)

2009 Bonnet MUSCADET DE SEVRE ET MAINE Sur Lie "Les Dabinieres" (Loire, France)

I drink a fair amount of Muscadets in the hot weather.  Good ones are crisp, refreshing, bone dry, with loads of mouthwatering crisp fruit and razor-sharp, clean stony minerality.  This one was excellent -- slightly riper and fuller than typical, but still very much identifiably Muscadet.

Light, bright silvery-gold color.  Intensely chalky, lime and green apple nose.  Crisp, tart apply fruit attacks the palate.  Extraordinarily pure stony minerality. Excellent fruit and acids too.  Very lively.  The texture actually displays some very light tannin -- very unusual for whites from this region, or any whites, actually.  Clean, zesty, relatively long finish.  B+/A-.  Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.  Can't remember where I got it or how much it costs.  I'll look for a receipt and update if I can find it, but I know it wasn't more than $15 because I simply don't spend more than that for Muscadets.

2009 Frei Brothers ZINFANDEL Dry Creek Valley (Cal.)

Dry Creek Valley is arguably the best area in the world for Zin, and this one has a nice nose but in the mouth is overripe, overblown, ponderous, and sweet.  It's not expensive, but don't bother unless you like that style.

Soft, dark black ruby.  Rich nose of earthy, ripe, slightly pruney blackberry syrup, roasted sweet baking spices, and smoky coals.  Rich and fleshy in the mouth, but heavy and one-dimensional.  Impressive amount of extract, but there's no acidity and a substantial amount of residual sugar, making it a cloying mouthful.  C.  Was $14 at Spec's on Weslayan.

2007 Domaine Pommier CHABLIS 1er CRU COTES DE LECHET (Northern Burgundy, France)

This was one of the most uncompromisingly, desicatingly bone dry Chabliseses I've ever had.  But I liked it.

Stunning color:  luminous and crystal clear medium dark gold, with a nice greenish glint.  The nose changed substantially over three nights (closed each night with a Vacu-Vin closure), which indicates to me that it can age and improve a few more years at least.  Closed and showing a sharply talc-y/minerally initially, by the third night it offered up really nice toasty, talc/chalk scents over intense pear and ripe apple fruit.  Bracingly bone dry, with medium light body and great, mouthwatering acids.  Intense sea shell/minerally-tinged green apple and lime fruit, along with light clear chicken broth, in the mouth.  Razor sharp, pure, stony/lemony finish.  A challenging wine to drink, but fascinating if you like the more austere versions of the Chablis style of Chardonnay.  B+.  Imported by Robert Kacher, I got this for around $26 at Spec's on Smith several months ago.

2009 Chapoutier "Bila-Haut" COTES DU ROUSSILLON-VILLAGES (Southern France)

Many wines from this hot, arid region have historically been chunky, low acid, earthy and dull-fruited.  Recently, however, there has been an up-tick in quality as lots of youthful growers has begun tending their vineyards more carefully and organically, and bottling their own wines, rather than selling fruit to a co-op or larger negociant.  And some of the more respected Rhone negociant/growers (like Chapoutier) have ventured west as well.

This Grenache, Syrah, and old vine Carignan blend is one of the most elegant, balanced Cotes du Roussillon Villages I've ever had.

Nearly saturated, luxurious black ruby/plasma color.  Rich, smoky, plummy, gravelly nose.  Mouthfilling flavors of blackberry, smoky cocoa, and stones.  Full-bodied, and with substantial but refined tannins, this wine has a balanced, long finish.  Very nice indeed.  A-.  I got this for $16.99 at Houston Wine Merchant on South Shepherd.

2009 Cedric Vincent BEAUJOLAIS "Pouilly Le Monial" "Vieilles Vignes" (Burgundy, France)

A very unusual but very good Beaujolais.

Surprisingly dark color, black/violet ruby.  Pure nose of cold-pressed grapes and cherry candy.  Tight and slightly tannic in the mouth.  Crisp, light, penetrating, bone dry fruit up front (grapey/cherry), molting into a clean, stony, but short finish.  All the flavor is up-front in this wine.  Very refreshing, and a nice picnic/cookout wine for the next few months.  B+.  Imported by Kermit Lynch, I got this for $17 from B-21 Wines in Florida.

2010 Perrin VENTOUX Rosé (Rhone Valley, Southern France)

Wow -- this is a great value in a refreshing, flavorful, dry rosé.  


Vibrant light watermelon pink.  Beautiful pure strawberry cherry juice fruit in the nose, along with some stony minerality.  Bone dry, vibrant crisp fruit in the mouth.  Medium-bodied, with loads of flavor and a long, pure finish.  Get a bunch of this to chill over the next few dog day months in H-Town.  A-.  Imported by Vineyard Brands, this is available at Spec's for $9 and change.

2007 Paul Jaboulet-Aine COTES DU RHONE "Parallele 45" (Southern France)

Another CDR I had tucked away for the 2007 tasting that wasn't, this is also a fine example -- quality way above its entry level station.  60% Grenache, 40% Syrah.

Dark blackish ruby with a little brickishness at the rim.  Great nose of deep, dark berry fruit, roasted herbs,  iodine-infused minerals, and smoky peat.  Low-toned, minerally blackberry fruit in the mouth with some soft tannin for structure.  Bone dry, but with mouthfilling flavor presence.  Long finish with no heat at all.  B+  Was $9 and change at Spec's over a year ago, so this vintage may not still be available, but if it is, get some.

2009 "EVODIA" "Old Vines Garnacha (Calatayud, Spain)

A ridiculous value in a ripe, structured, unoaked, minerally Grenache.

Dark ruby color.  Intense, vigorous nose of sharp-edged, chalky stones and bright, spicy dark raspberries.  Intense, powerful flavors coat the palate with ripe but dry raspberry syrup fruit and pure, clean stoniness.  Long, rich finish with just a bit of warm, alcoholic heat (what did you expect?  It's grenache, dammit).  Decent acidity for such a large-boned wine.  Will pair with grilled meats, meat-sauced pastas, and stews. A-. Imported by Eric Solomon, this was $9.88 at Spec's on Weslayan/Bissonnett (and probably at other Spec's locations too).

2008 Chateau de la Bonneliere CHINON (Loire Valley, France)

An excellent and relatively value-priced Cab Franc.  Intensely flavored, yet balanced and medium weight.

Intensely vibrant dark ruby.  Tight, dry earthy nose at first, but after substantial air gobs of ripe cherry and blackberry fruit emerge along with a sweet, high-toned smokiness and some chalky minerality.  Medium-bodied, but with great fruit presence and texture.  Loads of ripe but dry black cherry fruit and a hint of brambly earthiness.  Fantastic balance.  A-.  Will age nicely for another 2-4 years.  Imported by Weygandt-Metzler, this wine was around $16-18 I think, but I can't remember exactly where I got it.

2005 Chateau Fonreaud (Cru Bourgeois, Listrac-Medoc) (Bordeaux, France)

Nice, old-fashioned style Bordeaux.  Balanced, complex, medium weight, no new oak flavors, no fruit-bombiness.  Mostly Cabernet, but with a lot of Merlot in the blend.

Dark brickish ruby.  Medium intense nose of cassis, graphite, and fragrant, lightly-scorched earth.  Mouthcoating, drying flavors of low-toned dry blackberry extract, with sandstoney, brambly-woody accents.  Long, tannic finish with pretty decent acids.  B+.  Drink over the next 2-3 years.  Was $19 and change at Spec's on Weslayan/Bissonnett.  Imported by Horizon Wines, Houston.

ABC's Brian Ross' Message to Bill O'Reilly: Michelle Bachman Reportedly Missed Votes Due to Migranes, Shouldn't Run for President

We are witnessing the ramping up of a coordinated attack by left-leaning media types on the presidential candidacy of Congresswoman Michelle Bachman. Here, ABC's Brian Ross takes the role of ambulance chaser in a hit piece on the Republican congresswoman from Minnesota's sixth district.

The basic idea in the overall campaign to marginalize this Republican candidate is to "Palinize" Michelle Bachman. Begin to stir doubt in the minds of voters regarding Mrs. Bachman's qualification for office. Ultimately, make Michelle Bachman radioactive to voters. Start a narration that she is unqualified for office. Plant an underlying message that she is unqualified for office because she is a woman without actually saying it out loud.

In this case, raise doubts about Mrs. Bachman's suitability for the presidency because in the past, she had migrane headaches. Even after a report released by the Bachman Campaign in which Dr. Brian P. Monahan, Congress' attending physician wrote, "Your migraines occur infrequently and have known trigger factors of which you are aware and know how to avoid,.....When you do have a migraine, you are able to control it well with as-needed sumatriptan and ondansetron,". Brian Ross is undeterred by this report. His narrative is that Michelle Bachman is perhaps unqualified for high office and probably shouldn't run for president, because he infers, she missed votes in Congress due to migrane headaches. Mrs. Bachman has conceeded that she has had migraines in the past. A fact that was confirmed by Congress' attending physician, along with her ability to deal with and avoid the malady. But that is not enough for Brian Ross.

In his televised conversation with Bill O'Reilly Ross crafts together an anecdote of FUD, Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt about Bachman. Ross worries, "Is this candidate able to carry out the massive responsibilities" as president. The undertone of Ross' message is loaded with double entendre. His medium is the spoken word, the measured use of pause, voice inflection and facial expression. Michelle Bachman, goes the unspoken message, is after all a woman, and women are frail. The job of president is a tough job and may be too much for a woman, and this woman has had migranes! Can she do the job?

Despite the report by Congress' attending physician, Ross makes use of the interview with O'Reilly to start a whispering campaign against Bachman by dragging out the proverbial "former staffers and insiders" cannard used ad nauseum by dish rags like the New York Times and Washington Post. Watch the interview here:

The reason Mrs. Bachman is the target of hit pieces like this is that she poses a threat to a 1930's era socialist ideal of a world where real decisions are made by an "enlightened" oligarchy, an assorted pantheon of "worthies" and not by something as pedestrian as the common people and their elected representatives.

Look for other examples in the near-future of hit-pieces proferred as "news" and "entertainment" from media lackeys regarding Michelle Bachman and her run for the nation's highest office. Perhaps one of Mr. Ross' colleagues can dig up a story about how at one time, Michelle Bachman struggled with the nagging torment of hang nails. She couldn't possibly handle all of that Washington paperwork then, right?

GOP Congressman Joe Walsh Pwns Chris Matthews on Hardball

"The American people are beyond you” and unlike you Chris, Obama “doesn’t send a thrill up my leg.” says the Illinois Congressman. Responding to Matthews hectoring about the GOP proposal Walsh punches back with, “where’s the President’s plan Chris Matthews?" Just a sample of the video beat-down.

Must see video.

The Audacity of Mediocrity

I have returned from my journeys Northward and had some time on the road to reflect on where we are as a nation.  While folks inside the Beltway (which when travelled now would really make you think you live in the Third World) dither about the debt, greatness in our nation is ebbing.

Consider this image:

This is the interior of the Jefferson Building of the Library of Congress, completed in 1897.  The building is a testament of a belief in a great nation with a future ahead as bright as the stars.  Now admittedly, architecture and building techniques have changed dramatically, but typically these days for a civic building we get something like this:

...with lots of surface parking!  But that's another story.  This is the architecture of "we're done, stick a fork in it."  I get e-mails and comments accusing me of being so anti-government that I prefer utter chaos to any semblance of a legal order.  Not true.  I want government to stay out of the way of the private sector, but in those areas where they do belong, and preserving the story of our nation a la the Library of Congress, I want them to do it right.  The builders of the Library of Congress were conscious of producing something that would be admired for ages - it was hard and expensive, but they succeeded.  I want our leaders to set a vision of progress for the nation not pablums about the goodies they will bestow on me if I vote for them.

Consider the following image:

Yes, that is the shuttle Atlantis blasting off for her final voyage earlier this week.  There are a lot of issues with the shuttle program, but the fact remains that they were designed to each fly a minimum of 100 missions.  Atlantis has flown 33.  We have no replacement.  It is embarrassing to note that only four astronauts flew on this last mission.  Reason?  The Soyuz (Russian) craft is the only thing that could fly in the event of an emergency and it only carries three at a time - they have two on stand-by with a pilot per craft.

Shocking, I know for a conservative like me in these times of budget austerity to be getting misty-eyed about the space program, but here's the reality: if we can't get into space, we can't control it.  For a nation that relies on satellites for everything from our GPS units that tell us how to get to Grandma's house to watching re-runs of "I Love Lucy," not being able to control space is a frightening proposition.  Did I mention that we also use that environment for military intelligence, targeting and scientific exploration?  We cannot fight nor defend ourselves without having a space presence.  And, wait for it, this is one area where the government DOES need to be involved, because our livelihoods and existence as a nation depend on it.  We have recognized from our founding that we are a maritime nation and we have built a Navy to protect and accomodate that.  Admittedly, the Fleet is down to Jimmy Carter levels again, but it can still do its job of protecting our commerce at sea and projecting power to the bad guys on an as-needed basis.  Space is the ocean of the future and we just chucked our oars into the tall grass.

All of this points to our priorities as a nation.  This is where leadership comes in.  I find enormous fault with JFK on a lot of fronts from the absence of a moral code to the abandonment of the Cuban rebels in the Bay of Pigs.  But I liked his tax policy - "rising tide lifts all boats," and I really liked his challenge to the American people that we would go to the moon.  A goal and a vision fulfilled at 20:17:40 UTC, on the 20th of July, 1969.   That voyage began here:



The premise laid out by JFK has not changed.  All eyes are pointed space-ward...we are staring at our shoes kicking dust.  Modern leaders have forgotten that part of the task of leaders is to challenge and coax greatness out of their people.  Our current crop just wants to secure the next vote and the end result is the sclerosis that is killing greatness in this land.

The real tragedy is that the eyes of the world are also fixed on us.  Peggy Noonan reminisced in a fine column yesterday that the world needed another Ronald Reagan.  She scribes this from her recent trip to Europe where Reagan was honored in London, Prague, Krakow and Budapest and rightfully observes:

The world looks to America. It doesn't want to be patronized or dominated by America, it wants to see America as a beacon, an example, a dream of what could be. And the world wants something else: American goodness. It wants to have faith in the knowledge that America is the great nation that tries to think about and act upon right and wrong, and that it is a beacon also of things practical—how to have a sturdy, good, unsoiled economy, how to create jobs that provide livelihoods that allow families to be formed, how to maintain a system in which inventors and innovators can flourish. A world without America in this sense—the beacon, the inspiration, the speaker of truth—would be a world deprived of hopefulness. And so we must be our best selves again not only for us but for the world.

Now Dame Peggy and I have had some serious differences.  She was in the "wouldn't an Obama presidency be neat" crowd, but I respect her insights.  Reagan saw the big (and very hard) picture - the world would never be safe as long as the Soviet threat existed.  He knew we had to build up our military and push our technology to the limit to defeat the "Evil Empire." Everyone said it couldn't be done.

A second column in the same section titled "China Versus America: Which Is The Developing Country," pointed out the pristine status of China's infrastructure to ours.  It's a LOT short sighted as it avoids the point that when you get outside of China's coastal region you descend about 400 years in time  and the idea of 5-Year plans didn't turn out so well in other Communist states.  But I will give the Chinese this: they have their priorities right.  Instead of trying to provide every form of gimme to their people, they are focused on creating jobs and building world class infrastructure.

We, on the other hand, are busy rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic with piddling discussions of cutting here and there and taxing more and more while the Public Sector union cancer erodes us from the inside.  (How would you like to get paid $5600 a month to wash your motorcycle?)  The problem is not that the government doesn't collect enough revenue - it is that we are spending it on the wrong stuff and there is no mobilizing force of leadership to steer us onto the right path.

Here's what I would like to see:

1. Recommitment to the space program with the goal of returning to the moon in 5 years.
2. Restoration of existing infrastructure around the country.  Let's fix what we have first and then look into building high-speed rail and such.
3. Rebuild and modernize our military stet.  Our operational commitments have strained everything from men to materiel.
4. A crash program - Apollo project? - to make us energy independent.  The green stuff is all well and good, but let's be honest...there is no replacement for the gas engine that is feasible.  If one comes along, fine, but in the mean time, let's drill AND refine our own oil.

How are we going to do this - after all, it can't be done!

1. A national commitment to these programs will draw private sector capital in and create jobs!
2. We will HAVE to cut, trim, eliminate (especially Obamacare) entitlement programs.  A great nation should have a safety net for the less fortunate - but it should also inspire people to greatness not bully them into redistribution and mediocrity.
3. Dismantle the regulatory beast of the government - from EPA to OSHA to silliness like the Dodd-Frank Bill, we need to spend our money on the things we need not the "nice to haves," that grow into budget devouring cancers.
4. Eliminate outright those departments that are not mandated by the Constitution: Department of Energy, Department of Education, etc.

We are going to have to grow a leader that is willing to tell the American people the truth.  Ronald Reagan, one speaker in London said last week, "did not move to the center to get votes.  He moved the center to him."  We are still a great nation, the world is counting on us, we are only in decline if we allow ourselves to believe that we are.  Obama and his professorial crowd have done much to convince us that we have past our aegis.  We have not, we just need someone to step forward and remind us.

2009 Laurel Glen !ZA ZIN (Zinfandel) "Old Vines" (Lodi, Cal.)

Finally!  A Lodi Zin I can really get behind!  This was very, very good.  Did not have the muddled, undefined, flabby fruit I get out of lots of Lodi Zins.  This is purportedly from 100+ year-old vines grown in the Mokelumne River sector of Lodi (which is said to have the best -- which for wines means "worst" --soil for wines).  This wine had seamlessly intense, mouthcoating fruit, but was not heavy or ponderous at all.

Deep purple ruby.  Intensely fruity nose of tangy blackberry and plum (hint of rhubarb too) along with sweet, dry gravel scents.  Intense flavors attack the palate with dense cherry cough syrup fruit accented with a chalky earthiness.  Good acidity for a wine this ripe, and a long, pure finish with copious but soft tannin.  Not as elegant and seamless as Dry Creek, or as pure and razor-sharp as the best Paso Robles Zins, but very good in a unique style.  B+.  Was just under $17 at Spec's on Smith.

(Sorry, 2007 shown).

2008 Vigna Nuove di Musella VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE (Veneto, Italy)

A crisp, lively red for summertime meals.

Dark ruby with the barest touch of garnet.  Intense, high-toned nose of crisp, winey cherries, rock dust minerals, and fragrant underbrush.  Crisp, intense, dry cherry fruit, with lots of chalky minerals.  Medium body, with fairly crisp acids and a bit of very fine-grained tannin adds a nice tactile feel.  A little short on the finish.  B.  Imported by Vintners Estates Direct, I got this for $17 at Spec's on Smith.

4th of July wines

Bare-bones impressions from memory:

2008 Donnhoff KREUZNACHER KROTENPFUHL RIESLING KABINETT (Nahe, Germany) -- This was a killer wine:  Unbelievable fragrance of ripe, lively fruit, flowers, and stony minerals.  Great verve in the mouth.  Ripeness, lightness, great buoyant acids.  Fantastic.  A.

2007 Saintsbury "Toyon Ranch" PINOT NOIR (Carneros, California) -- A soft, full, earthy and savory Pinot Noir.  Very much a Nuits-St. George style, but a bit riper and more approachable.  B+.

2009 Charles Joguet CHINON ROSÉ (Loire Valley, France)

This was a very good, earthy, muscular, yet balanced rose.  I think it was made of Cabernet Franc grapes, like most Chinon roses.

Beautiful light coppery-watermelon color.  Inviting, earthy, strawberry/cherry nose with a steely mineral spine.  Big, dry, earthy flavors with lots of ripe, dry cherry fruit.  Good acidity for an '09 to balance out the fairly full body.  Long, powerful, clean finish.  Very good.  B+.  Imported by Kermit Lynch.  Got this on sale from B-21 Wines in Florida for $12, making it a great value.

2010 Alfred Pery "Vallee Loire" MUSCADET DE SEVRE ET MAINE "Sur Lie" (Loire, France)

A good value in a bone dry, crisp, zesty white.  Good alternative to Portuguese Vinho Verde if you like that style.

Light, bright gold with a slight greenish glint.  Fresh, lemon-lime nose with lots of chalky accents.  Tart, bone dry flavors of minerally, chalk-infused green apples.  Crisp, clean, zesty finish.  Very good, cheap, refreshing summer white.  B-.  Imported by Fruit of the Vine, I got this for $8.99 at Whole Foods on Bellaire.

(Sorry, can't find a photo)

2007 Chapoutier COTES DU RHONE "Belleruche" (France)

I bought this two years ago (along with a 2007 Jaboulet Cotes du Rhone "Parallele 45") because I was going to have a "Big 3" Cotes du Rhone tasting when Guigal released his 2007.  I figured it would be good intel for readers faced with all three on store shelves.  Well I waited and waited but it wasn't until just a month or two ago that Guigal's '07s actually hit store shelves here in Houston, so since Guigal's tardiness nixed the commercial relevance of my planned tasting, I figured I'd just start drinking these one at a time.

This one is a beauty.  If you see any left (unlikely), snap them up.

Dark black ruby.  Inviting nose of sweet, dark spices, rich plummy fruit, and fragrant dry gravel.  Soft, mouthfilling flavors of inky, ripe blackberries, along with lots of gravelly minerals.  Great balance, and still a bit of soft tannin remaining.  Clingy but dry finish.  Everything seemed in perfect balance with this wine.  Very elegant for a basic entry level Cotes du Rhone.  B+.  I think I got this for about $15 at Whole Foods on Bellaire well over a year ago.

2009 Xavier Vignon GIGONDAS (Southern Rhone, France)

I know I drank this way too young, but I have four of them and wanted to see where it was in its development curve.  Very young, but beautifully made:  balanced, fragrant, long in the mouth.

Very deep black ruby with violet highlights.  Needs substantial airing to open up, but then displays stunningly pure nose of black fruit and cassis, along with a pure garrigue scents (that fragrant smell that permeates the landscape of the southern Rhone and Provence consisting of herbal scents being blown over dry, rocky soil) and flowers.  Intensely flavored yet seemingly lithe in the mouth, with bone dry, smoked mineral-infused blackberry extract.  Tight and lean, it has good acidity, lots of micro-tannin, and a long, pure finish.  This will age nicely for another 5 years of so.  A-(+).  Got this from Wineaccess.com several months ago.