2006 Clos des Rochers AUXERROIS (Luxembourg)

I haven't had a wine from this very good producer in a few years, and this remains as good a value as it was then. Auxerrois, by the way, is a relative of the Pinot Blanc grape.

Bright, light gold color. Earthy, honeyed nose, with toasty straw notes and pear/apple fruit. Round and loaded with fresh, earthy minerals in the mouth, with some interesting sour pear skin fruitiness and pretty good acidity. Almost Maconnais in style. 86. About $16 at Spec's on Smith. Imported by Glazer's Wholesale in Dallas.

PS -- the Riesling from this estate is usually a good value in an dry, Alsace style wine as well.

2002 Clos des Rocher Riesling Grand Premier Cru "Wormeldange Nussbaum" (Luxembourg)

This was a superb buy in a really nice classic Alsace-style (dry, austere, intensely-flavored) Riesling. Bright, very light straw-gold color. Great nose, which developed with significant air time, of lemon-lime, stones, green apple, and peach. Just a hint of Alsace-style "gout de petrol" minerality. Crisp, minerally, and bone dry in the mouth, with fresh lemon-lime, green apple fruit and medium body. Nice length, balance, and finesse. 89. $12.94 at Spec's on Smith, which makes it a great buy compared to its $18 - $35 competitors from Alsace.

2002 Clos des Rochers Pinot Gris (Wormeldange Nussbaum Grand Premier Cru) (Luxembourg)

When I first opened this bottle, I got a funky smell of Parmesan cheese rinds. But with air time, that blew off completely to reveal spritely fruit aromas of tangerines and tart granny smith apples, as well as stones. Austere mineral and citrus flavors dominate on the palate. A tad riper in the mouth and I could have really fallen for this wine. It's the antithesis of Pinot Gris wines from Alsace, which to my taste frequently are so buttery and viscous as to be cloying and undrinkable. Overall, a very nice, unique, and food-friendly (particularly shellfish-friendly) wine. 86. Was $12.85 at Spec's on Smith.